I was just sitting here thinking of sinking and the cleanup. I know in the Tirpitz it too 1.5 days to dry out. I usually clean all of the motors with motor spray and then oil the bushings. This will displace any water left in the motor to prevent rusting. So what if I sacrifice a bottle of .75 cent alchohol into the hull to get the water out of the nooks and crannies? Is it worth it? I figure dump it in when I get home swirl it around real good, maybe let it sit for an hour then dump it. I figure it might dry in half the time. Any thoughts.
Any r/c car motor spray will work. I have used them since being into cars back to 1989. Its an alcohol base I think, I am not really sure but it evaporates quickly. I think I bought the dynamite brand from Tower last time. Any hobby shop that carries r/c electric cars and motors should have it in stock. This stuff WILL rinse out all lubrication so be sure to oil all moving parts after. Typically you would remove the motor so the spray can drain out the bottom of the can. This is recommended when you get back home. At the pond just getting the brushes and commutators rinsed will hold off anything until then. The drail holes at the bottom are good as carbon builds up as dust over time from the brushes and you need to get that out of the can. In high performance electric motors that havent been cleaned in a while you will see a lot of black running out of the can the first spray or so which is largely the carbon buildup (which is why you need to remove it from the gearbox).
I wouldn't waste the time. The water will dry out of the nooks and crannies all on it's own. It's supposed to be wet, it's a boat. Protect the guts and dry them if you want, that would be worth it.
I've found that half an hour under the sun, with decks off and a slight breeze, tends to dry things out very well. Just be sure you drain out any big pools of water first, and it's just moisture left behind.
After a sink and still at the pond, I flush all servos with alcohol and squirt a little CRC down into each magazine. Patch all holes with silkspan and dope, replace gas bottle, reload mags and go hunting. After battle is finished, a quick flush for the servos, tip as much water from hull as possible, remove all decks and go home. At home, guns are removed, magazines emptied, alcohol flushed and dried. Mpa-7's get a squirt of CRC. Batteries out and on charge. Hull is left to dry with decks removed.
Agreed. Air dry with the decks off and the hull tilted at an angle to allow excess moisture to pool and be collected in the stern. If the weather was crap I would tilt the hull and set a fan over the hull and let it run for a day blowing the air through the hull. Be careful with WD-40. It may displace the water but it leaves a residue on the busins. When the motor heats up it becomes flammalble and voila you have a flaming motor. Guess what. It doesn't wash off. I had this issue with my Bismarck motor. The motor ran fine for several years with the flames coming out of the motor during running. Even after a sink once the motor was dry it repeated spittig out flames. I never used WD-40 since then. I tried that motor cleaning stuff. Good for the race car motors as long as they are dry. Quite toxic stuff and messy. I haven't bothered with either and have no issues since then even with several sinks later.
You make me think that I should have a can of keyboard cleaner on hand to blow the moisture out of the motor.
Why? Just run them for a while, they dry themselves. You can also lube them at the same time, but don't let any oil get onto the armature or brushes.
You can lubricate them. Just use a lubricant that will not leave a flammable residue when exposed to heat. I myself only lube the motor output shaft very little. I don't put anything inside the can. I let them air dry.
