Arizona rib plans

Discussion in 'General' started by -mK.._, Feb 21, 2023.

  1. -mK.._

    -mK.._ Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2020
    Posts:
    56
    Location:
    Utah
    Hello, I recently just finished tracing the rib outlines image.jpg for the Arizona and im wondering if everything looks correct and what else i need to do.
     
  2. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2013
    Posts:
    1,258
    Location:
    NJ
    The ribs look sort-of right, but I've never built an arizona. Maybe @Anvil_x could chime in, he's built Idaho which is at least somewhat related...being a bulged WW1 American dreadnought.

    Or potentially @rarena , as he's a 'Zona driver.
     
  3. Xanthar

    Xanthar Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2015
    Posts:
    660
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    They look pretty good... very close to the ribs I just cut out for a 1:200 Card model of her.
    If you haven't accounted for the thickness of the fiberglass, yet, you will want to inset the profiles by that much. 3/16" is probably good.
    Then you'll want to inset them again by about 1/2" so the ribs are strong.
    Notches to fit them on to the keel would be next.
     
  4. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,626
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    Okay so what are you looking to do?

    is that gonna be a wood hull, or are you making a fiberglass plug?

    if you're going for a wood hull, then you need to be careful with your understanding of the dynamics surrounding the forward end of the torpedo bulge and the casemates.

    the forward end of those bulges can be tricky. if you don't do them right, you get a sharp transition from one rib to another and.... *from experience* that turns into a very bad thing because if you get hit there, it will act like a water incursion turbojet.

    I'd eliminate a lot of the scale shenanigans there on the bottom. those little nips where the bottom of the bulge meets the hull? get rid of em. they suck and are a pain to deal with.

    defs look at the pics in my Idaho Stem-to-Stern. I did a lot of crazy woodwork in that hull. looking back on it, I'll probably never do another complex hull like the Standard-Type Battleships without serious computer drafting first.

    I could have cut that 19 months of insane woodwork down to maybe a 6 month build. incessant precision fitting and finish work.
     
    notSoGnarly likes this.
  5. Xanthar

    Xanthar Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2015
    Posts:
    660
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Got any pics of the transition in question?
     
  6. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,626
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    look at the bottom of ribs 5 and 6 in his picture. also the bottom of rib 14.
     
  7. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,626
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    those transitions should be smoothed. there is no point in retaining a fully scale shape on the bottom of those bulges. it just makes the later woodworking difficult.
     
    Xanthar likes this.
  8. Xanthar

    Xanthar Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2015
    Posts:
    660
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    OK, so it's less about transitions fore and aft between ribs and more about the transition from bulge to hull along the bottom? I guess that make sense but, how did you get "hit" on the underside of the bulge? That seems like a tough trick shot with a BB cannon : P