I'm a carpenter not an electrician is this a good one For drive motors and dose one (I would think so) go onto pump as well? 0.1µF 50V 10% PC-Mount Capacitor 0.1 microfarad 50VDC Tolerance: ±10% General Features Model 272-1069 Product Type Metal Film Capacitors Body Material Multi Fits What Model 272-1069 Miscellaneous Features Min Operating Temperature -40 Fahrenheit Max Operating Temperature 85 Fahrenheit Supported Languages English
I feel like major Tom is anybody out there oh I get it this is like a magic lamp I already got all my wishes damit I wished I had known my last wish would have been for more wishes []
the type you want to use are the disk kind. not the metal can type. should be on all motors. one from positive to negitive and one fromthe positve to the motor case and one more from neg to motor case. + to - 4.7 u I think and fron - to case .1u same for + to case.
Almost any disk capacitor will be fine for our application, as long as the voltage rating is high enough (say, >25V)
The shape of the case is meaningless. Avoid polyester caps. They can explode spectacularly when subjected to excessive voltage. Avoid any type of polarized cap (i.e. with a '+' or '-' sign on it). No need to be overly precise about a value. 0.1 µF works fine. Allow plenty of "headroom". I usually use caps that are rated at 6x-7x my supply voltage, or more. JM
Is there any one that uses Radio Shack capacitors that can just give me a # maybe I went there tonight and walked out with a headache?[V]
I think I've used all of these at 1 time or another: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103630&cp=&sr=1&origkw=capacitor&kw=capacitor&parentPage=search http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062365&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=capacitor&kw=capacitor&parentPage=search http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102589&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=capacitor&kw=capacitor&parentPage=search Now, whether any happen to be in stock right now at your local store is another matter... JM
Thank you thank you I actually went in to buy the first 1 the green one held each one in my hands and the more I tried to guess what one to use the more confused I got and decided to crawl back here and ask thank you I for your assistance [^]
One last thought after reading the where to how the hell do you still have room to solder on the wires [xx(]
I usually add a pair of spade lug terminals to the motor. 2 cap leads just doesn't leave enough left to plug onto, so I extend each motor terminal with what amounts to a short "pigtail" made from the cap leads. That's 1 cap from the case to each terminal, plus 1 cap between the terminals, which makes 2 leads that need to be attached AT each terminal. To attach to the case, I drill & tap a #2-56 hole in the case, then put a very short (1/8") screw in it. Hook the 2 cap leads from the terminals & screw them onto the case. Even with flux, it's just too hard to get solder to stick well to motor cases, & I can drill, tap, & screw them down a lot faster, with 100% solid connections. Got to be a little careful drilling, but it's not hard to find a convenient spot that won't hurt anything. JM
Shape might have nothing to do with it... but I don't think that you would get m(any) electrolytics if you walked into radioshack and picked up a pack of ceramic disc caps. There should also be plenty of lead length on your basic garden-variety cap to do all that one needs to do, plus have a bunch trimmed off. If you have an iron of sufficient power, with flux it'll stick properly.
Drill you mean that tool that is made for perforating something behind and beyond the original intended target object.[:0] can you post some pictures please id like to see that
