Hi Guys, Finally getting some time back for the hobby, so I thought I would share with the Cleveland build. I am currently building two of these sexy little cruisers, with the target date of April for completion. This will enable my son to attend a battle before he goes off to college. Some highlights: Modular design for easy maintenance of both boats. Foam superstructures thanks to the classes at: http://www.theengineerguy.com/ Foam turrets with details 390 motors in the BC gearbox Fiberglass deck I'll start posting pictures and build log next week. Lou
Lou!! Sounds good, Looking forward to seeing those turrets and superstructure and maybe gaining enough confidance to start casting myself. Are you going to be at NATS this year? Ty was forced to make up nicknames on his own last year. Chris aka Throat aka Lord Vader
THROAT!!!!!!!!!!! As for NATS, I am going to at least make a few days, it's been too long. The casting is easy now that I have a class under my belt. Next month is using brush-on molds, less product and more detail.
Lou You are lucky to have gotten to do a class. When I started learning molding I had to do it by experiment. I feel I am pretty decent at it now and well Brush-on Molds are nifty as that is how I do a lot of my Fiberglass molds since I have low numbers I make of most of my things I have done it for. Just be sure you add the hard shell to the outside when the time is right if you do not the brush-on mold will not do ya much good. And yes I hope to have money for Aoba very soon for ya.
No problem, whenever is fine. I have been molding stuff for a while, but not the best of quality for others... The class has me with smooth-on 30, hard plastic outer shell, and a lid for the entire mold. This way I can pour smooth-on expanding foam and have it turn on itself to make a nice looking piece (outer skin gets all the detail). I am doing each level of the superstructure, they can be placed on a common pole for easy replacement. The decks are made of fiberglass board. I am also casting the props in rigid plastic for drag disks (cheaper than extra brass and easily replaced).
One day I will be getting to a class on this as well. I know I have a long ways to go on learning some things. One of these days I will have to show you some of the finished Costume Props I have made from Resins and molds. I am no slouch, but I also know there is allways room for improvement. I need to get away from using Alumlite. I want to start useing Smooth-on Products
Ok, this is a picture of the sub deck installed on the hull. Much work is left to be done! http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/FileManager/Storage/633374637786009992.png
Looks like you do the same thing I do when given a fiberglass hull. You wet sand the outside to smooth it all out it seems.
Marked one side before I ran out of tape. Cut the side after drilling small holes in each corner. Used a Dremel fiberglass wheel for cutting each panel. The hull will be turned upside down so the sub deck can be attached to the hull with epoxy and tape. With the hull upside down, the strip on the inside of the sub deck forms a U channel. The epoxy will be added to this channel to make a permanent joint. The fiberglass boards are only 1/32 inch thick and they are already waterproof. http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/FileManager/Storage/633375655932401025.png http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/FileManager/Storage/633375656896307275.png
I'm enjoying your build thread, Lou... When I saw the Cleveland hull at the Savannah battle last year I thought it was one of the nicest BC's ever done (and I don't even lean towards US cruisers!). Looking forward to seeing the progression on yours. I'm using the same fiberglass board for the decks on HMAS Australia. Very light!
Thanks Clark. The first one is ready to go, this is the build of the second one. Lessons learned sort of thing. The fiberglass board is inexpensive, can be cut with good shears, and is already waterproof.
Lou where have you found the fiberglass board. It may be the choice of sub deck material I want to do for my Prince Eugen. I will eventually start a Build thread on it when I go beyond the initial wet sanding of the hull.
McMaster-Carr. Look on the website for fiberglass boards. 8549K52 Electrical-Grade Fiberglass Sheet (Gp03) 1/16" Thick, 12" X 24" In stock at $8.78 Each This is great for cruisers and BB's, 1/32 works for destroyers. Use the 1/16 for the sub deck and main deck. You won't be dissappointed.
How are you powering her Lou, dual or single motors? What size?. I have been helping Don and Rick with their new boats, and Don's is a (Cleveland) USS Miami. He is making a highly detailed super for his, about 70% done now I would guess. He just needs to sheet, and wire out the waterproof box for the hull, everything else is mounted internally. I think it will make the Savannah battle is what he is planning on for right now. Ricks, new Lutzow, just needs sheeting, superstructure, and paint. We finished all the wiring this afternoon, and tested it all, so that part is 100% ready. She should make the March battle. I made up a fire control card for both of their ships, Rick's can now fire that 75 independently, if he remembers during battle. No gas wasted, so the 75 will hit harder. []
She is getting powered by (2) 390's on the BC gearbox. Made a custom fiberglass backplate for the box. Good to hear about Don's boat, that will make 3 Cleveland's on the water to go against Ricks Lutzow. Here's the setup: http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/FileManager/Storage/633376372232854548.png Question, how do I get the photo to automatically show up? Right now I am just cutting and pasting the URL. What else do I need to do after uploading the file?
To put an image in the message, you'll need to reply to the thread by clicking "reply to thread" vice using the quick reply window. The main reply thing has a button that looks like mountains that puts in the code for making it an image. Poor Rick! I'll have to get Mike to make me a Lutzow plug so I can make the hulls and operate one in good conscience Or just finish my Agano plug and chase your Clevelands around.
After you copy in the file, highlight it, then press the insert image in the format section above your message. You can go back and do that, and add the pictures. Well my Kumano has been on hold for like 6 months, but I plan on starting it again after the Feb battle. Super is about done, windows are cut out, stuffing tubes are installed. So I hope to have it ready for the Savannah battle. We will have a bunch of Lutzows, and Mogami's running around. Did you tap the bottom of your Kips, or were they done at the factory? I saw Tim's were also done the same way. It will help keep the weight down low for sure.
