After using these valves for a while now, I feel I can give a half decent review on them. The Clippard Maximatic Soleniod Valves are electric/spring operated poppet style valves suited for most gasses and liquids including CO2. The valve is constructed of aluminum, stainless steel, and thermoplastics. The valve I used is part number MME-2PDS-W012. This model features: - 12 volt operation - 18" wire leads - max 150 psi - 1/8" NPT ports - 6.7 scfm flow rate @ 100 psi - mounting holes - 20 ms response time (more than fast enough for fast gun cannons) - 4.2 oz weight - retails for $19.95 each I installed the valves into two fast gun ships; the big Richelieu battleship and a Gloire light cruiser. Both ships had different power and air systems that should give a good idea of which applications we can use the valves for. The Richeliu featured long air supply lines, a 12 volt firing system, and required 5 valves. The Gloire had a 6 volt power system, short air supply lines, used 2 valves, and required light weight components. Notice that we are trying to use the 12 volt valve on 6 volts. Most fast gun ships tend to use 6 volt power systems, including my own! Unfortunately, Clippard does not make a 6 volt version of this valve. So we had to try to make the 12 volt valve work. The valves themselves worked very well with one limitation. We noticed in the Gloire that the valves failed to fire when pressurized and while the ship was moving and pumping. While brainstorming possible causes, someone came up with the idea that there wasn't enough voltage to operate the valve when the propulsion and pumping systems was operating. The Gloire used a 6 volt, 10 amp hour nickle metal battery pack for power. It was possible that under load, the battery pack voltage was dropping under 6 volts. To test the theory, a 6 cell, 7.2 volt battery pack was made and installed into the Gloire. With more voltage available, the valves fired every time without hitch. This wasn't a problem in the Richeliu due to the ship's huge 36 amp hour, 6 volt lead acid battery. The battery easily carries the ship's amp load without dropping below 6 volts. Still, to be on the safe side and because the ship has the room and weight, it'll keep a separate 12 volt nicad pack just for the firing circuit. Pros - low cost $19.95 each - fast operation - flow is enough for small cannons (unsure about larger big gun cannons) - 4.2 ounce weight is less than comparable KIP valves (a boon for small ships!) Cons - must have 7.2 volts minimum for consistant operation We'll have to see how the valves hold up in the long run and after many sinks. But at the moment, I recommend the valve as an alternative to the heavier and more expensive KIPs as long as the voltage requirements is met.
RE: Clippard Maximatic Soleniod Valve Have you been having any water-shorting issues? Are they twitchy when wet?
RE: Clippard Maximatic Soleniod Valve They shouldn't twitch at all... only one moving part, and the coils are sealed. Even if they weren't, freshwater shouldn't short them. So I'd be shocked (pun!) if they did.
RE: Clippard Maximatic Soleniod Valve What did you use for the trigger with these 12v valves. The delta boards are 5v only. If you used micro switches do they support 12vdc?
RE: Clippard Maximatic Soleniod Valve I used Delta boards. A common misconception is that the delta boards can only use 5v. They do use 5v, but only on the receiver side of the board. On the solenoid side of the board, they handle 12v easily.
RE: Clippard Maximatic Soleniod Valve Sweeet! Really? That'll help me out quite a lot; I'm also using these valves.
www.clippard.com Plug in part number MME-2PDS-W012 They charge a $10 handling fee in addition to shipping, raising the effective cost to about $25 each if you buy four. There are also various local distributors you can get to from the main website. I have an additional comment on these valves, the bracket and screws that are under the solenoid coils are a very poor grade of stainless, if they are indeed really stainless. I recommend disassembling and lubing the screws and plate with grease to inhibit rust. Otherwise you may not be able to disassemble them later when you really need too. Strikemodels sells better valves that are cheaper than the Kip valves, but I already have a stock of these cheapo chinese mme valves. Ron Hunt
additional comments... Used for three years, sodak and bismarck neversieze the tiny screws for future disassembly coat or paint the metal pieces, I scotchcoted mine sometimes the valves leak, requiring a quick disassembly and silicone lube the o ring ( usually after winter) will leak constantly if plumbed backwards can be fired with a 12v battery pack (Don F. uses a couple aaa's to fire his) I have a 4.8v reciever batt. in series with my 6 volt system will missfire with a 6 volt system under load, needs a little bit more, 7.2 at least
Update, I just got 4 more valves in and disassembled them next to 6 older ones I already had. The old ones had a U19 code on the label, the newer ones had a C10 code. They appear to have made some improvements in manufacture recently. Machining quality on the valve body is slightly better. One of the older ones (far right) had a pinched O-ring on the top seal. Don't know if it would have leaked. I can't take a really good closeup with my phone camera, sorry. Some of the valve stems on the older ones are missing a hole in the side, which I assume is an air bypass to allow the stem to travel faster. The seal has also changed shape slightly. Most importantly, they changed the screws. The older ones on the right were already rusting, new in box. They take a #1 phillips. The newer ones on the left appear to be stainless or nickel plated, and take a #2 phillips. Good call, Clippard! Same old wavy washers though. They usually rust away quickly. I'm not sure what they are for but a lot of solenoids have them. I've never noticed a difference between having them or not. The extra nuts at the top of the screen come with the solenoids, I assume they are spares for when the brass inserted plastic caps break or get lost. The newer ones are machined and have a better seating area. The older ones are just plain old nuts. Ron Hunt
Put some "never seeze" on the screws and it won't rust much at all. plus you can back them out later and they won't be seezed. Napa has it.
That is why I took them apart. Also put dielectric grease (from the auto parts store) on all the OUTSIDE metal parts to inhibit corrosion.
I painted or scotchcoted all the metal. They are pretty simple and other than the screw stripping issue, are easy to maintain.
I am interested in a substitute for the heavy Kips but this 12v issue gives me concern. I run my Mutsu on 6vlt 12 amp hour batteries. I might see if I have enough weight left to install a third 12vlt 4 amp hour battery just for the valves.
You may also want to check the Spartan Scientific solenoids. They come in 6v coils and have a model with a lightweight composite valve body.
You wouldn't even need a 4ah to run solenoids. I am not sure of their draw but at 7watts, I could hold the button down on all my kips (28watts so about 4.5 amps) for about 15 minutes so if I changed a 1ah battery each sortie it wouldn't be a problem. I use 2.6ah life cells now and its pretty small. It turns out I can run it all day but I change it every two sorties regardless.
Amp draw is not the problem with the Clips. Not enough voltage to run the 12v coil is the problem. 6v will barely trigger the 12v solenoid. So McSpuds is saying he might be able to find room for a small 12v battery for the Clip solenoids.
A guy in LA uses these solenoids. He triggers them on a 9volt battery, just the little cheap 9v. Tosses it after every battle day.
