Who here uses the fully electric actuating valves, which ones, & how much success have you had? FYI: DON'T USE Clippard 2013s... they are leak type! Thank you return policy!
A lot of MWCI guys use the Kip solenoids. Very spendy, a little heavy(not an issue with a battleship). About $45 apiece, most work pretty well, I had a gas leak in one of mine new out of the box, and that turned me off. Still, a lot of people like them. I have seen several people using the Clippard system, which is lighter and cheaper, and easier to get parts for. I will be using that on Hyuga.
I literally just ordered Clippard MME-41PES-W012... 3 Way 180 PSI 1/8” NPT connections 31 SCFM @ 100 PSIG ~$25/ea I hope they will do the trick! []
MME-41PES-W012 is a three way valve; which means 1.) When no voltage is applied: Input is stopped, air tight Output is connected to exhaust 2.) When voltage is applied: Input is connected to output Exhaust is stopped (air tight) You might be thinking of a 4 way valve, in which there is 1 input & 2 outputs & the input is "shuttled" between the two.
That's wierd. When I cut and pasted that number into their system, the tech drawing showed one exhaust port, and 2 each inlet and outlet...
Yeah, I tried it again, it says: 1/8" npt 5 port 4-way single solenoid valve 12V Are you running 12V on iowa? I'd be happy cause then I wouldn't be the only freak in MWCI running 12V
I was planning on using a 2-way valve for Hyuga's guns, the MME-2PDS-W012... What's your opinion on 2-way vs 3-way valves? Hyuga is inheriting the 12V 18AH battery setup I used in Vanguard, no reason to buy more batteries. I had minor problems burning out pump motors that were supposed to be rated for 12V but weren't. Where did you get the pump motor you're using? I would like to get a reliable one.
2 vs 3 way... hmmm.... [*bad thoughts ommitted] I don't think it makes much difference. 3 ways just lets the air vent back after valve is closed, as well as forward. I wanted it because I want to calibrate the cannons a bit differently... & didn't want to worry about "build up pressure" wasting a shell. Now take that for what it is, I am not a mechanical engineer & don't know fluids very well. I was given (from Mikey, you the man!) a battlersconnection 1unit pump. I've seen them in action & they really kickass! I'm not sure about what voltage it runs on though.. To tell the truth BC says "change out the motor" if you want; so I thought I'd see what the stock one could do/is rated at & then worry about upgrading it. To tell the truth, I'm more worried about reengineering the spektrum DX6 controller (Update: Just finished!) & getting the outsite shafts & rudders working. The drive motors I use are johnson 600s from allelectronics.
12V@18AH would be electrically plentiful I assume. Does it not make your boat top heavy, being thicker "lesser" batteries?
My 12V big battery is 3" tall when laid on it's side, and 6.5" in width, with the long axis being about 8". It's ok, I leave 1/4" underneath for water to flow. I don't expect it to be too topheavy. In any case, I will be travelling to Brian K's house to make use of his 8 foot inflatable model basin for sink testing. Over and over until she sinks flat I'm going with 2-way valves for simplicity and they're only $20 each. Operationally, I don't expect much difference between them and 3-way valves. I have a pump on order from BC, IIRC Charley told me at last Nats that they're OK on 12V. I'll probably have my extra motors ready if I burn one out. I also saw a cool idea on someone's ship at a battle where they have a motor cooling system on their pump motor that they got from an RC boat racing place. A cooling pipe coil goes around the motor and the pump flow goes thru them on it's way to the reducer/outlet. I'm planning on using that myself. Are you coming to the MWCI Nats this year?
Hey guys, I'm a little late joining this discussion but heres what I'm doing in my Yamato: running a HP line from the main gas manifold to a Clippard multi-valve manifold, this is where the modified mouse valves will be placed. when I say modified I mean that the factory, upon request, will change some things inside the valve allowing it to operate pressures up to 240psi instead of the regular 105psi. These are special order with a minimum of 25 units (splitting cost with several others). These valves will be the "triggers", sending a pulse of HP air/CO2 to the MPA7 on the cannon. And since they are a 3-way valve, once the trigger on the transmitter is released, the air is bled out of the line going to the MPA7 allowing the cannon to close and recharge. Using the manifold setup it will allow for several different firing options like you push one button to fire all cannons on the port side and vice versa.
Interesting, I didn't know they would mod their own valves! Out of curiosity, why are you having them do that instead of using one of their maximatic valves?
becuase of its size and manifold set up. 4*8*1The set up I'm using is going to have 12 valves and will only take up an area 4"x8"x1". Its also fairly light, the valves are normally closed 3 way, require next to nothing for electricity and they're quick. if you don't already have a catalog from clippard you should get one, it would be very handy. I was fortunate that my local distributers (2) each sent me a copy along with the one I got direct from the company
just thought of something; it will be a few more weeks befor I put the order in for Matt's and my valves, so if any of you would be interested in buying some valves and are serious about it I can add more to the order (might even get a better price, who knows) other wise if you get them on your own you have to order a minimum of 25. The sales guy told me they willcost 2-3 dollars more than the regular valves (so around 26 each, which is cheaper than some of the other electronic valves).
Yeah, it's tempting, but since I already ordered my maximatics I'll post a note on the MWCI mailing list, though. There are a lot of battlers who don't use 12v (needed for maximatics) but also don't like shelling out $45-50 for Kip solenoids.
I am one of those guys. Kip solenoids in Canadian dollars is very expensive. Most of us here run on 6volts. I originally ran on 12v but the 6v offered more size choices, less cost and more amperage for longer running.
Curt, you saying you're interested in some of the modified mouse valves? The voltage I am going to order for is 6volt (that way I can run every thing off the main batteries). Also the type that are being ordered are the manifold mount variety, which means that you would need to order a manifold for the number of valves you'll be using (they're cheap, around $12.00)
