Expansion Tank question for a Fast Gun set up

HI every one. I'm new to this world of battle ships and i need alittle help for my ship.
I am setting it up for fast guns. Right how i'm planning on having a gun facing on the starboardbow and portbow and 2 off the stern. I have 3 2port poppit valves and plan on running the stern guns together since i only have a 4 channel radio and i needed a way to turn a pump on and off
What i would like to know is "should i run an expansion tank for each of the guns or can i use 1 tank to feed them all?" If it will help i can post a pic of my radio box i9n the ship to give a better idea of what i have and if i can get a pic or a link to show me what to do that would be a great help

 

I have 4 guns in my fastgun Duke, one a twin setup off the stern, and I don't use any expansion tanks. I think you really don't need them till you start firing tripps, or quads myself.

 

thanks. that should make it abit easier to fit everything in it and now all i got to do is get the reg

 

I would use two small ones, one for the back to run the duals and one up front for the sides. An expansion chamber gives the Co2 a place to turn to gas. Long hose will act the same but two small ones ( 2" X 3/4 pipe) should do.

 

Both points absolutely correct and no, I'm not dumping liquid co2 into my system. Always make sure your bottle neck is pitched up in it's mount.

 

You can never be too safe when it comes to pressurized gasses. Our air systems are the most dangerous things in our boats.

 

No offense taken. anything that keeps someone new from getting hurt or building something unsafe is good. I'm sure the dangers of liquid co2 in the system are not know to someone starting out.

 

i guess i should name the ship i have.Tennessee
As it sits now i have a 12 oz bottle with plans to get the battlers connection reg. The reg side will be right in the front of the boat and the Co2 line will be around 2' long to get to the radio box. I don't have much room left so all my C02 lines and accumulators i may need will have to sit on top of my pump Battery until i get a better idea of how the water channel will sit in the boat

from what i have read i need to change what i have

 

What are the cams made out of? They look good. You should have a littel more extral length of hose and have the brass pnematic clams over the barbs to secure them. This will keep them from blowing off the barbs. If you were to pressurize your hoses as is right nowthey will blow off the barbs. Other than that looks good so far. Tennessee is pretty wide aft of your rear battery. I can see where you can place your accumulators right and left of your drive motors.

 

Looking at that picture I would suggest that your ship will be rather light.

Looks like you have maybe 10lbs of batteries. That ship should be able to carry a 36 AH block with little problem.(13 lbs)
Provided you don't make the water channel out of concreate filler.
I would try for a weight of just under 31 lbs.
A 36 block will also provide better power supply for drive and pumping. I would not use different batteries for pump and drive.
There are plenty of good 6v pump motors.

A ship of this weight will have some flex to it unless you reenforce the deck rim. Those little sticks alone are not going to do the job.
You need more spreader to keep the hull shape.

Where does the pump go? The ideal place would be aft of the the deck step, but looks like you have drive motors there.
The drive motors should be located further aft.

You don't really "need" volume tanks on poppet valves. Except for maybe the twin sterns.
Note that MAV-3 valves vent through the stem, and so will dump gas from the stern gun actuators into the box.
If you don't have some way to vent it, it will blow your box open.

Also you don't really need 12 oz bottle for 4.5 guns. A 5 oz tank will work nice, and save room.

Those motors had better be 14.4 volt Titans, else you are going to be flying.

Also note the notch at the bow of the ship is not a casemate, you don't get to make it hard under most rule sets.
But there can be a 1/8" stringer there (not 3/8")

You pump turn on looks to be done via trim tab? If so then every time you fire that cannon on pump will turn off. And with the pump on the movement to fire the cannon will be longer and slower. You might consider a push-on push-off type switch.

 

When i got this ship it was already started so the gearboxs will stay where they are for now. The local club near me would be happy with a new target on the water to worry about the notch at the bow not being holy but if its needed i will cut it out but at the same time this is my first ship. At this time i just want to get it floating and shooting. More reinforcement will be put in on the sides and once i know how everything will sit in the boat i will run braces closer to the top

I have two 3/8" dowl running from the gearbox to just in front of the radio box with 2 1/2" between them as a start for the water channel. I plan to use concreate filler on the out part of the ship and mold a step down channel to my pump.The pump as it sits is behind the bottle. I figgered since most people would be aiming for the bow i would need the pump there to get the water out quicke.

Yep those are Titans that will be paired with a EVX-2 Marine ESC. It has a training mode (limits forward by 50% and reverse power by 25%) to help slow it down and i will have drag props (may need to up size them). I could also rig up something with the water cooling intake (for ESC) to help give some drag
As it sits now i have three 7.2v batteries and one other set aside

I'm going to take a stab at the dark here and think that the cams you are taking about are the servo horns maybe? anyway its the standerd round horns you get with some servos and i cut plexiglass circles, screwed them on the horns and sanded them down til they fit to the point of just touching the poppit valves. i curved and sanded at an angel a small pipe and glued it on one of the horn to trun my pump switch on (lever switch).

You know maybe this thread should be renamed and moved to the ship forums LoL

 

almost forgot. all the poppit valves i have are MAV-2 and one of them has a T fittingon it so i could fire 2 guns at once

 

14.4 v titans run at 6 volts turn at about 11400 rpm. So they should be ok for drive.

If they are 12 turn titans then it will be too fast.

 

You don't want the pump in the bow.

In order for the pump to work there needs to be some water, so where ever the pump will be water will collect.
You don't want water to collect in the bow, and it forces more holes above the water line below.

In short, boats with pumps in the bow sink easy.

Concreate filler is rather heavy. I would not use the stuff. I would use two part foam, and then fiberglass after sanding to shape.

 

I was only using the titan because i can put them in a deep V later down the road, the same with the ESC. Payed $20 for both motors
uummmm...........there are.........12.....turn....titans:blink: very BIG drag props needed LoL
I'm not the best with fiberglass but i see where you're heading with it. The Concreate filler i was going to use comes in a tube. From what i've been told its more rubbery then concreate and the ships i've seen with it in seem to be fine
Now that i looked at the batteries they are 6V 7.2Ah lead acid