All of my R/C combat models built since 1996 (about a dozen) have had fiberglass decks. Two models are now in the U.S.: check out the decks on the SNS Canarias and HMS Courageous if you encounter them. I lay the decks up on MDF boards. First, decide where you want the access hatches and draw them on a full size copy of the deck plan. Then draw another set of lines 1/4" wider around all of the hatches. Rubber cement the copy of the deck plan (with the approximate thickness of the hull trimmed from the edges) to the board. Lightly scribe the wider set of lines around the hatches onto the MDF through the paper with an exacto knife and steel ruler. Next, CA glue 3/16" x 3/16" basswood (or balsa) strips around the edges of the plan. Peel off the plan and make sure the rubber cement is all rubbed off. Now cut pieces of basswood, thin ply, lexan or plexiglass to match the 1/4" wider scribed outline around every access hatch. Screw these 'hatches' to the MDF board where the locations were scribed. The mold's 'hatches' should be of the same material and thickness as those to be used on the model. Apply at least 6 coats of mold release wax, buffing each one. After 24 hrs. apply gelcoat within the basswood outline strips. It should be at least 1/16" thick (to allow for scribing of deck planking). Gelcoat should extend about an inch onto the hatch top surfaces all around. After 24 hours glass the mold. You'll need to cut strips of matt to fit around the hatches and taper into the bow and stern. Best to prepare 2-4 overlapping sets of matt, depending on thickness of matt used. I find thin 0.75 oz matt easier to work with for this application and will apply 3-4 thicknesses, using a small roller to work the resin through the glass. The initial layers of glass matt should butt against the hatches all around their edges, and should end up close to the hatch thickness. Immediately apply additional sets of pre-cut matt strips about 3/4" wide all around each hatch, extending about 3/8" onto the top surface of the hatch (obviously over the previously applied gelcoat). The lips being formed should be no less than 1/8" thick (counting gelcoat). When cured, gently work the deck clear of the mold, which will probably be destroyed in the process. The finished deck, when flipped right side up, will have recesses corresponding to the access hatch locations and flanges underneath to support the hatches. Trim the flanges to a 1/4" wide support for the hatches. (This is why the hatches were drawn wider than the actual holes in the deck.) Bad Bob
I only live about an hour and a half away from Bob, so I can bring the Courageous up there for him to take a close look at if he wants..
Thanks for the info guys. I think rather than build my own fiberglass decks I am just going to get the fiberglass board from Mcmaster Carr.
