Okay, I'm starting a new thread to prevent clogging up the Baden/Bayern Hull Plans thread with my questions. I've read the Bearn and Edgar Quinet build threads which got the idea in my head that I can manage building a wooden hulled ship. The ship I've decided on building is the SMS Bayern. I've finished equipping my first model (RM Andrea Doria) and I'm taking her to my first battle this weekend at the IRCWCC Regionals. I like the Doria, but I want to build a ship that's more..."mine", and part of what really got me interested in the hobby is the scratch building process. So I selected the Bayern based on it's characteristics. Single prop, dual rudders, so she can be made to be maneuverable. She has a good amount of weight to work with. She's 5.5 units, so that's one gun up from the Doria. I'm going to re-use the Doria's guts in the Bayern, to minimize cost. So, now on to the questions. In the EQ/Bearn builds, the number of ribs allowed by the rules matched the actual number of ribs on the ship's plans. The plans I would like to use for the Bayern are: i.imgur.com/6EOIz3t.jpg My issue with these plans is that a number of the hull frames are omitted. In the Bearn/EQ builds the number of frames on the plans matched the number of ribs allowed...making it relatively easy to just lay out the ribs and cut them out on the ply. How does one extrapolate the shapes of the missing ribs from these plans? Am I over thinking this? I've never tried anything like this before, so I'd rather ask all the questions now before I'm halfway into this and realize that it's not going to work.
First you need to decide what thickness of ribs you are going to use. Most go with 1/4", but you may choose to go with 3/16" or 3/8". Next, use the handy rib caculator provided by McSpuds located here: mcspuds.net/rccombat/pics/howto/Ribcalc.html This gives you 17.5 per side using 1/4" or 11.66 using 3/8". Seeing that the plans you linked to have 11 ribs that are not part og the impenatrable bow or stern sections, 3/8" would make it easy. One thing you can do is to extrapolate ribs, which can be done one of three ways. Method one is to use the bottom section of the plans you posted to create ribs in the locations you desire. Combine the distance from center with the distance from keel using the middle section of plans for your vertical axis and "connect the dots" with some free-hand drawing. Another method is to take the ribs shown and "fill in the blanks" by free-hand drawing the missing ribs in-between the ones shown, taking care to blend the lines to a "meet in the middle" profile. The third and most accurate method is to use those plans to model the hull in CAD, then slice off rib sections where you desire. A lot of work if you are new to CAD, but nearly perfect results. Good luck! I have found that finishing a well-built wooden hull is quite satisfying.
I did a comparison of the two different rib patterns that I posted on the Baden plans page, and they are almost exact, except that the one you want to use has less ribs. You could just use the other set of plans, and delete enough ribs so that you have seventeen ribs left over. Beaver
Another advantage of building this particular ship is that the center section is a pretty basic rectangular box... vertical hull sides, no bulges, no pronounced sheer or tumblehome, no noticible armor belt. Easy to build, easy to sheet.
I think I'm going to go with the 3/8 ribs to simplify things. Good to know she's easy to sheet. How does the Bayern class work with the casemate rules? Her casemate s aren't really part of the hull, in fact they're above main deck level. Do they still have to be cut out?
Heh... welcome to the can 'o worms. I won't go into all the debate, but (depending on which ruleset you plan on battling), McSpuds build thread on Baden is a good reference, as is the MWCI build rules at their website.
fewer ribs is harder to sheet.. more ribs give you a better chance of having a bb hit hard area and gives you more ribs to sheet with.
To give you my best answer although I am still relatively new. I am using Delft ship with my first ship and it is working very nicely. Use the hull lines pic to get your shell of your hull I went with American standers over metric measurement I added a ruler to my ship pics so 15 clicks in any given direction is 1/8th of a inch, or 30 clicks is 1/4th of a inch I'm rambling. Well back to the Point after you have your Hull shape start adding what ever thickness ribs then shape each rib to your hull shape/ plus your backbone of the ship that is what I have done showing my progression of the ship I have planed. I first got my scalcs done for 1/144 scale then used Photoshop to make the ship plans to scale with the side bar ruler then added a Pic of a ruler to the hull drawing so I have a scale when in Delft because the ship scale was in feet. if you want to see this Delft has you tube videos on its web site for intersections of surfaces. http://s771.photobucket.com/user/Ho...ip%20Build Delft has a low learning curve. if you can work photoshop delft is easy.
A quick answer to the Baden casement question is to make the outermost flat section parallel to the hull penetrable. The rest of the casement will be impenetrable.
