So I have balsa blocked Mackensen's bottom and am ready to epoxy/glass the bottom of the hull, but I was wondering if there are other methods then using fiberglass and eoxy. I was told that using just epoxy migh not be a good idea due to the possibility of it cracking if the ship is say, dropped or hits rocks on the bottom.
In the old days they used to cover canoes with canvas bedded and saturated in paint for wear resistance. In that vein, I’ll be experimenting in using linen (old bed sheets) and Titebond2 glue on my next scratch build boat. I’ve laminated fiberglass over some cracked shed rafters using Titebond as a cheap fix and it seems to work. I’ve also laminated heavy building paper over plywood to give a smooth painting surface. There’s other options than fiberglass and epoxy… experiment.
Anything that can form a composite material will probably be very strong. fiberglass and epoxy is the standard, but I have seen other combinations as well using other adhesives (superglue is common) and various fibrous materials like carbon fiber, sawdust, newspapers, and various cloths. I've even seen someone utilize used dryer fabric softener sheets and epoxy.
I do not want to experiment to much on this hull but perhaps my next one haha. People have used newspaper? so is the consensus that epoxy by its self is a no go but rather needs some sort of cloth?
Thanks for the info gents! Mac's bottom received a fiber glass/epoxy bottom 20 min ago and is now drying outside.
Herr Tyng... use Titebond III not II. III has greater water resistance, and many people who've built Puddle Ducks (my sailboats class) have used the sheet and TBIII method with great success.
I used to pass on TB3 because of the price premium when it first came out. I see it's down to around $2 more than the TB2 in the 16oz size. For those who are interested. The difference between the two glues is: - Type I water resistance (TiteBond III) - Any glue that passes ANSI Type I water resistance specification. This test is more rigorous than the Type II test. It involves specimens being immersed in boiling water for four hours, then dried in an oven at 150ºF, then boiled again for four hours, and cooled in water just prior to testing. Specimens must meet wood failure requirements to pass this test. - Type II water resistance (TiteBond II) - Any glue that passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification. This is a rigorous test that involves specimens being soaked in water for four hours, then dried in an oven at 120ºF. If no delamination is seen after three cycles, the glue passes. Since TB3 is also water soluble (before it dries), I'll see how it does in sheeting using a 50/50 water glue mix.
HOw does using CA glue work? Does one just literally pour it over the cloth until its soaked through?
Ouch...if you're going to do that, might as well use $20 bills for the cloth. Isn't CA much pricier than epoxy per ounce?
I have already glassed hull using epoxy but I still need to do the small aft part and I ran out of epoxy So out of pure laziness of not wanting to go to the store to get more I was wondering if CA glue, which I have a lot of, would do the job
for just the bow and stern hard area the CA on the cloth seems to have worked, although like Jeff mentioned over an entire hull it would get expensive ha.
On their own CA and epoxy are about equal in strength when soaked into fiberglass cloth. Although I would be vigilant of where the two would come into proximity of one another. CA I have found does not have the durability(over time) of epoxy due to Ca being much more likely to crack due to it's complete lack of flexibility . I am of the opinion that epoxies or resins is far superior over Ca in any lamination of fiberglass or fabrics. By the way the heavy felt in hobby stores would be an excellent alternative to blocking or using ply on bottom of ships just make sure felt is tight as a drum over ribs and any creases or wrinkles are worked out prior to laminating with resin. Speaker boxes for cars have been built in this manner this for years.
Hmm I will keep the felt in mind for my next ship. The Ca is only used on the bow and stern so it makes no contact with the epoxy and shouldn't be flexing anyways haha if it does I hav bigger problems then CA or epoxy
