http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC_AR_Warehouse_.html was looking for opinions as to weather not this could be used as ESC for our purpose. thanks for your thoughts. craig
I'm pretty sure that is the ESC I switched to at IRCWCC Nats this year after I cooked one of my Mtroniks (Mtroniks suck, stay away from them). Ran two of them in my PoW without issue (can't say that about the other parts of the boat, but the HK ESC you linked to is A-OK). I believe a few other people were using them too.
We have been using several of these ESCs locally and they have worked great. Find a set of directions and make sure you switch it from normal to climb mode. That will give you instant forward/reverse. I also turn off the low battery cut off, since the cut off voltage isn't really suited for gel cells or LIFE. Thats it, only two adjustments and they give you a button to make the changes. You can't get much simpler.
Great! I have ordered them and will do just that^^^^ thank you for the heads up, i appreciate it. Craig
Note to self. Make programing changes before potting up....... Stupid little button.... I thought I was so smart by potting up the spare as well. . Good thing they are cheap. Can't live with the brake. . Ordered more from HK.
one suggestion... figure out if the button is NO or NC, then wire it out to a set of pins. if it is NO, then leave the jumper off and seal up with some heat shrink tubing except when programming, if it is NC, then seal up with jumper included. then all you have to do is unseal that local region (which is easy) and reseal or skip the seal if the water is clean enough that it won't change a NO to NC from contact with the pins.
If it makes you feel better, Max, I have one of those ESCs in a drawer waiting for the day that I need to equip an RC car Now that the button doesn't press
I use those all of the time by desoldering the pushbutton and soldering two wires that stick out of the epoxy. If you ever need to change the setting just touch the two wires. You could add a button, but I hate corrosion in little stamp metal parts like switches and buttons.
ESC's with the button that you have to push to sellect a program entry are not worth it. Get a ESC that has the ability to program it with a program card. With the program card you can change many settings with no error, and no beeps and boops. Programing a ESC with beeps and boops with drive you crazy, and when you are in the pit with several captains the beeping and booping never stops. Was that my ESC that is beeping or is it yours? I had one ESC that would not accept a program card, and it went into the grabbag at the next Nationals (with the setup sheet)
These esc's aren't like the brushless ones. They only have two programable features, brake and voltage cutoff. Both are very easy to program and don't take hardly any boops and beeps.
I just ordered 3 of the beep boopers, so I guess I will go with them. What is your recommended brushed motor ESP?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32025__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC.html Rick and Trey Schultz and I think Chase runs this ESC. I don't have any brushed motors to power so I can't say personally. But the Schultz's have had very good results. One issue is that they only go up to two cells of LiPo.
I got the 30A version of that for my liberty ship. Started playing with brushless on it. I have the programming card. Just missed one little thing.
Renounce your luddite brushed ways and embrace the future hehehe Save the card for later brushless use
Yes, It actually is a planned upgrade. I have a bunch of Mabuchi motors in my parts box. Before my 10 absence from the hobby I ran MAG switches, so I am learning all the new stuff as I go. Too much new stuff at once and I will be fighting issues all year. I wanted to get the Barham on the water last year, so I am already a year behind.
