HMS Vanguard (IRCWCC)

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Kevin P., Aug 1, 2024.

  1. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Starting the Vanguard build. I picked up the hull a few years ago on one of strike’s last rounds, back when allies v axis was still a thing.

    I tried the water in the hull method for measuring freeboard vs displacement. Marks in the hull in 5 locations.
    IMG_3097.jpeg
    the first pour and movement was a fail when I created a vanguard wave pool and got water all over the floor.
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    Having supports below the balance height under both ends helped, once o had a known amount in the hull I would measure the additional water to add without having to the boat much on the scale
    Here is water at 41lbs displacement, scale is around 39 I believe
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    here is summary of freeboard vs weight
    IMG_3102.jpeg
    I’ll use this to set to bottom of the window height, probably around 39lbs level
     
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  2. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    upload_2024-8-1_22-10-12.png

    if it helps at all, I got a tad over the scale WL at 38 with the hull form in CAD, so you're right on the money, I'd say

    Looking forward to seeing it on the water!! we should team up for stupid stuff!
     
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  3. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Plenty of room for your well engineered systems. Looking forward to the build.
     
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  4. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    Hell yeah Steve!!! I'm gonna hold off on building my Vanguard til I can see Kevin and Tim's on the water with em next year. then I'm gonna *SHAMELESSLY STEAL ALL OF THEIR IDEAS*
     
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  5. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys

    marked ribs today. Going with 9x 3/8 and 16x 1/4” with a smaller stern hard area. Concentrating ribs around the guns for a change, with 1.5” spacing. I like to keep normal rib spacing within 3.” Previously considered putting more in the bow but if it’s driven correctly then should be going bow-in too much
    IMG_3111.jpeg
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    Need to finalize the bottom distance
     
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  6. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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  7. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Holes drilled and first side cut
    IMG_3114.jpeg
    Only took about 30 min to cut. Fiberglass isn’t too thick, but thick enough to not reinforce. I’m used to cutting out my own hulls which I make a good bit thicker, but was nice getting it done quickly
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    ribs
    IMG_3117.jpeg
    hopefully I’ll get second side done later this week, and clean up stringer a bit
     
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  8. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Nice progress! Looks like the top edge of that hull isn't very precise. Seems to be a common thing with strike hulls.
     
  9. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Yes the top cut wasn’t great. I cleaned up the “level” portion over most of the length of the hull by measuring off the stringer, which is straight. It all gets blended into the deck so I don’t spend too much time on it.
    I cut the starboard side out today, now just need to clean up the gap between stringer and deck rim to make sure a bb will pass, then should be done with cutting windows
    IMG_3118.jpeg
     
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  10. Panzer

    Panzer Iron Dog Shipwerks and CiderHaus

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    Those are some "Good lookin windows"!!! Smooth, slick and Cleannnnn!
     
  11. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Cleaned up the stringer area, ensured clearance with a 3/16” bit
    IMG_3125.jpeg
    downside of close ribs is fitting the cut off wheel between them, some spill over
    IMG_3126.jpeg
    I hang on to old discs that are small for this purpose so they can fit in the tight areas
    IMG_3127.jpeg
    I had to smooth out the bow and stern where there was another stringer modeled in
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    Smoothed out
    IMG_3129.jpeg
    a few ribs are rather thin, so I’ll probably reinforce them. Generally the top by the stringer is good thickness, but bow and stern are a bit too thin for a bb magnet
     
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  12. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Two layers of glass added to bow and stern ribs
    IMG_3130.jpeg
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    IMG_3133.jpeg
     
  13. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Snuck in a bit of time today. Cleaned up the rib reinforcement, now I can pick up the boat without worrying about breaking those ribs
    IMG_3134.jpeg
    next up is stuffing tubes and gearbox. Using standard traxxas style, brushless, 1.75” props. I’m thinking of long shafts to allow placing aft 4 solenoids aft of the motors, so something like 18” shafts. I put the motor shield on as well, it’s import to plan for. I also want to leave some space in outboard for wires and hoses, also something I’ve messed up in the past
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    turrets are marked by the hash marks on centerline
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    Playing with pump placement. Probably going centerline vs behind motors. Maybe bow and stern, tbd

    IMG_3137.jpeg
    placing a few more components for rough layout. Planning 2x bottles, centerline, one bow one midships. Probably 8x batteries
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    Tracing out stuffing tube path, cutting holes next. Stern shape is interesting, props are looking to be fairly far aft based on the keel

    IMG_3139.jpeg
    hopefully will be able to chip away at getting stuffing tubes in this week
     
  14. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Working on stuffing tubes and gear boxes

    bored out gearbox to 11/32
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    dremeled the gearbox to get full range of motion on motor position. Used plates from SJS since I have sever extra gearbox bodies without the traxxas plate. Also drilled and tapped grease port
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    shaft holes and alignment checks
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    Long shafts keep the shaft angle low
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    brass struts
    IMG_3155.jpeg
    next step is glue motor mounts in. Once those are set, I can finish around the shafts and the strut hole
     
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  15. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    oh nice shaft struts!

    how'd you make them?
     
  16. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Gearbox housings in. Pool of epoxy method, easier than shaping bottom of gearbox. plumbers putty to prevent it getting into housing
    IMG_3156.jpeg
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    the struts are 1/4” by 1/16” brass from k&s. I bend around a drill bit that’s 1/64 smaller than stuffing tube so when the free ends go in the hole it compresses around the stuffing tube. I start like this and then bend with plyers
    IMG_3157.jpeg
    Small hole to take them, will epoxy around it
    IMG_3158.jpeg
    I have to guide them into the hole while placing the gearboxes in place. Otherwise the geometry doesn’t work if the shafts are already fixed
     
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  17. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Stuffing tubes epoxied in
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    Putting a few example props in place
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    shapeways
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    A few different rudder sizes
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    Next step will be rudder post and servo mount. Planning to use the standard one I used for sodak
     
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  18. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Rudder post and servo mount
    IMG_3172.jpeg
    my universal design with no idler and 3x posts spaced 0.25” apart
    IMG_3173.jpeg
    nice tall stern, plenty of room
    Epoxied the base in today
    IMG_3174.jpeg
    Probably print some rudders tomorrow, then work on drag shafts
     
  19. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    nice, thanks for the pics and explainer on the shaft struts!

    hey so are ya gonna be using that Traxxas 2075 as your rudder servo? are you planning on doing a voltage bypass to get the max torque out of it?

    @bsgkid117 has been mentioning bypasses and such for like the last year or so. figure I'd ask since it's a class 7 rudder being turned.
     
  20. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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