Lead Batteries

Discussion in 'Propulsion' started by tgalx3, Jun 13, 2011.

  1. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    If you discharge completly a lead battery and then reacharge it, is it better for it and make it last longer?
     
  2. DarrenScott

    DarrenScott -->> C T D <<--

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    Completely discharging any battery is generally not a good idea. Some tolerate it better than others, but it's still not a good idea.
     
  3. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    A discharge to no lower than 5.4 volts is okay. Don't go below that and you shouldn't have problems. An occasional run down to just above that (call it 5.5V but you have to watch it closely at the end because it'll drop faster as you go along) followed by a good ovenight slow charge is good for keeping the battery fresh.

    **Yes, you can go lower but without undivided attention and accurate meters, I don't recommend it at home. If you're an electrician on a submarine, you can get away with more because you're doing nothing (okay, maybe more than nothing*) on watch but waching battery voltage and have several people watching with you.

    * Gascan can back me up on this in a year or two when he's on his sub standing watch for drills ;)
     
  4. rarena

    rarena Well-Known Member

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    nicads like that, don't do that to lead acid batteries, not good for them.
     
  5. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    The SLAs I found I can get away with reducing them to 4v but no more than that. Gel Cells don't like to run flat. I can run my Yamato till it crawls. By that time after checking the voltage the batteries are down to 4v. Anything less than that and the motors just can't turn the prop when in the water under that load. A slow charge is good when you run them down that far. When battling though I wouldn't go less than 5v.
     
  6. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    I was under the impression that SLA and Gel cell batteries are Lead Acid in nature. I have read that they
    are designed for emergency lighting mostly. In that use they require that they "NOT" be deep cycled.
    The only lead acid batteries that can be deep cycled are "deep cycle Marine". So we shouldn't cycle them
    past about 5.5 volts. Storage is a issue in the winter time when the cells go below 32 deg. F they do strange
    things like reversed polarity. In the past I have discharged my SLA's and charged them to see what they
    have in storage capacity, useful at the beginning of the year to weed out the "bad" batteries.

    But now with the newer chemistries becoming cheaper, SLA and Gels are not a good investment. They tend
    to not supply the current as advertised.
     
  7. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Everything you need to know about SLA's can be found here http://batteryuniversity.com/. In particular, the Lead Acid articles under Battery Types and Charging Batteries.

    Steve Tyng
     
  8. Gascan

    Gascan Active Member

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    Day two of basic math and basic electricity, another year and a half to go. I blame you for letting Rickover steal my soul... And Kotori just took the ASVAB yesterday. Don't you see the chain of misery and suffering you've caused? Repent! Repent your sins and and as penance you shall let me sink you in the few free moments I have to spare!
     
  9. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    SLA's are not a bad investment. I get them cheap compared to the new batteries and the new batteries are fairly new on the market so as far as their longevity that is still open. The SLA's however do last for a long time. I have 4 that I still use and they been in Bismarck and Yamato . My last set lasted me for 10 yrs and they were used heavily.
     
  10. jch72

    jch72 Active Member

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    Lead acid batteries lose capacity quicker than the LiFEPO4 batteries are projected to. The LiFE batteries, sitting on the shelf, only lose 3-5% of their charge per month, if you leave a Gel Cell on the shelf for 6 months you are lucky if it has any charge left at all. Gel Cells are rated for 200 cycles, the LiFE batteries are rated for 2000 cycles. The usable capacity on all batteries drops with age, the LiFE batteries are still good for 80% of the initial rated capacity at 5 years old. Gel Cells suffer significantly more capacity loss with age. We had gel cells on float chargers continuously for 5-6 years where I worked, when the power went out we found they were all dead. I would say that although your Gel Cells test OK voltage wise, if they are 10 years old they have almost none of their rated capacity left. Enough to turn a motor, but I bet the voltage coming from the battery when it was under load dropped through the floor.
    Here is the battery type comparison chart from batteryspace:
    Chemistry​
    Voltage​
    Energy Density​
    Working Temp.​
    Cycle Life​
    Safety​
    Environmental​
    Cost based on cycle life x wh of SLA
    LiFePO4
    3.2V​
    >120 wh/kg​
    -0-60 °C​
    >2000(0.2C
    rate, IEC Standard)

    Safe​
    Good​

    0.15-0.25
    lower than SLA
    Lead acid​
    2.0V​
    > 35wh/kg​
    -20 - 40°C ​
    >200​
    Safe​
    Not good​
    1
    NiCd​
    1.2V​
    > 40wh/kg​
    -20 - 50 °C​
    >1000​
    Safe​
    Bad​
    0.7
    NiMH​
    1.2V​
    >80 wh/kg​
    -20 - 50 °C​
    >500​
    Safe​
    Good​
    1.2-1.4
    LiMnxNiyCozO2
    3.7V​
    >160 wh/kg​
    -20 - 40 °C​
    >500​
    better than LiCo​
    OK​
    1.5-2.0
    LiCoO2
    3.7V​
    >200 wh/kg
    -20 - 60 °C​
    > 500​
    Unsafe w/o PCM​
    OK​
    1.5-2.0​
    Start looking at watt-hours instead of amp-hours, it gives you a much better indication about how much truly usable power you get from a battery.
    Ron Hunt
     
  11. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    While I do not wholly disagree with you on the lifecycle cost advantage LIFePO4 batteries presesnt (if performance matches predictions)... A float charge is the absolute worst way to 'maintain' lead-acid batteries. Ever. Charge them up, trickle discharge them, and recharge them weekly. You might wind up going to the battery backup at the low point in the cycle, but then that's why we calculate the minimum acceptable AH requirement and size our battery banks accordingly. Of course, no one in the hobby (that I know) maintains a proper maintenance regime (including me!). I just think that using a float charge regime's destruction of a good battery over time is not the fairest example to use.