Hey guy’s I’m looking to get a regulator for my Baltimore class hull and rick from battlers pointed me towards palmer as I may have weight issue (I have been told from some captains who have built these hulls). That being said I need small and light I have been eyeballing the Micro Rock what are your thoughts on these. or any other sugestions I run fast gun IRCWCC it is a 3.5 unit ship. my set up so far is 3.5 co2 and battlers connection guns once again thanks for all your help
What you want to look for is a Rock-the-Boat regulator which has pressure relief. If you need a secondary regulator, then the Micro rock would be the choice for that application.
okay the rock the boat do you have a model number or somthing i looked on line and i cant tell which one to get
Palmer is the single best manufacture of CO2 regulators in existence. There is NOTHING better than a Palmer regulator. However, don't go jumping on the Rock-the-Boat regulator just because it's got "boat" in the name. Make sure it fits your need, first. All of the rock-the-boat regulators I have seen attach directly on to the CO2 bottle. This setup is great if you don't know what an ASA is, but it makes the CO2 bottle take up more length inside the ship. If you've got the length to spare, do it. You'll save about $10. If, on the other hand, you are very limited in length, you want to get a regular Rock or Stabilizer with 1/8 NPT in. You then get a "duckbill" ASA, cut off the duckbill part of the ASA with a bandsaw, and use several 1/8 NPT pipe fittings to mount the regulator parallel to the bottle, saving length. It looks kinda like this: ..................regulator ............................] ......CO2BOTTLE-ASA Take a look here: http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/online-catalog/rock.htm At the top are the Rock regulators. Pick your color. These are great regulators. They have an overpressure relief valve, and are designed for CO2 use. Just below that are the Micro Rock regulators. AVOID THESE AT ALL COSTS. They are not designed for use with full-pressure CO2, and should only be used as secondary regulators. I know someone whose ship did a wonderful impression of a British battlecruiser because he used a micro rock instead of a standard Rock. Don't repeat his mistake. Below that are several bits and pieces for regulators. You can ignore these. At the very bottom of the page are the Rock the Boat and Rock the Boat CA regulators. These are your standard Rock regulator, designed for CO2 use, with different inputs. The Rock the Boat takes 16g cartridges, and the Rock the Boat CA screws directly onto the CO2 bottle. They don't mention color choice but I bet you can if you ask. I hope that clarifies things []
I was of that opinion until I had one of their regulators fail. Now I will not buy them, as they fail in a manner that will, at a bare minimum destroy your tubes in your plumbing system I was really happy with mine for 1 season of battling, then the pressure would not hold constant, and rather than decreasing like the heavy ones tend to, this one slowly increased until components would fail (usually tubing). Sent it back to palmer for repair. It worked for a day or two and started doing it again. Sent it back again. I simply don't trust them because they fail in a manner that can cause catastrpohic damage to your internal pressure system, unlike the heavy brass ones that have always failed to provide enough pressure when they needed maintenance. I consider the palmer regulators unsafe due to how they fail. I have had the williams balloons regulators fail as well. They have always failed by reducing the pressure they output, not increasing. When my palmer one was going bad, it would be fine for several hundred shots and then over the span of a minute or two increase the pressure to beyond 250psi (at which point it destroyed my pressure gauge). This is not something you can just test for at the beginning of a sortee, because it would look ok until the regulator saw the pulsing of cannon fire for a while and then kaboom. something in the line would blow up due to over pressure (usually tubing).
Carl thanks I get it a little better now but at the bottom of the page it shows Rock-the-Boat Regulator CA$78 Boat Stabilizer $89 and I couldn’t tell which stats went to either but I guess my big question is what’s the difference between Rock-the-Boat Regulator CA and the Rock if I read it right it is $20 and 1 oz
Not really, Rick from BC told me the same thing, he has gone thru 3 of them, and they all did the same thing. They work for a bit, but when they blow they can cause alot of damage. I was using his Sheer when I was first starting, I turned on the CO2, and about 1 min later, the side of the ship blew out, when the tubing ruptured. In small gun we set them for 150 psi output, what are you setting them at for big gun on average Kotori.
Powder Monkey, the big difference between the Rock and the Rock-the-Boat CA is how you connect it to the CO2 bottle. The Rock-the-Boat CA regulator screws directly on to the bottle, adding to the overall length of the assembly. The ordinary Rock requires something like this: http://www.westernwarshipcombat.com/chartroom/album56/IMG_6976.jpg This photo shows one of my rocks, with a 90 degree fitting, a male-to-male connector, and a modified "duckbill" ASA. This allows me to save space lengthwise, and I try to mount it in my ship so that the regulator is above the bottle (to prevent liquid CO2 reaching the regulator). Archer, could you provide a little more information on the setups which failed? Did they always fail after you'd been firing rapidly for a few seconds? How was your CO2 bottle placed in your ship? Have you ever seen ice or frost on your bottle or regulator? When Palmer fixed your regulator, did he say what was wrong with it? Were you using a Rock or Stabilizer, or were you using a Rock Lite? How often had your ship been sunk, and did you properly oil the regulator after each battle day where you got sunk? Solely based on what you've said so far, it sounds like you're freezing the regulator. I've seen that happen before, and what you're saying sounds very similar. Your description of working fine for a while, then suddenly failing, is consistent with what I've seen for a frozen regulator, as does your comment that the problem was not eliminated by Palmer's maintenance. Use up enough CO2 fast enough, and you either freeze your regulator in the "open" position, or a little liquid CO2 squeaks through and boils to gas inside your lines and accumulators. Either way, your regulator is no longer regulating properly, and something (usually gas lines) goes boom. As for why Williams regulators don't do that, I'd guess it's because Williams regulators dissipate the cold better than Palmer regulators. Of course, it's also possible that you're just having really bad luck. Palmer regulators have been serving in my club for as long as Palmer has made regulators, and most of them work just fine. djranier, in Big Gun we adjust our pressures to comply with our foam penetration test. This gives a wide range of different operating pressures, depending on the individual cannon design. Some cannons run at 150 PSI, some at 130 PSI, some at 80 PSI, and I've even heard of one that runs as low as 40 PSI. Ideally, we try to design our cannons for 80-100 PSI, because that combines the best of high pressures (smallest mass of CO2 per shot) and low pressures (smaller probability of leaks, air lines detaching, etc).
There was no ice, this was done on bench testing with the bottle vertical. When I talked with them on the phone, the lady at the other end of the line was familiar with the symptoms and said that they could repair it. It just wore out I think and far to quickly. The problem MAY have been eliminated by the second round of maintenance, but I can't really justify blowing up more stuff. I've never had another regulator drift like that while in use, and it worked great for the first year or so, until it started destroying my pressure system. Now I just won't risk it with them. When the brass ones change pressure, even if they are frozen over, they don't drift on me, and I can repair them. Which means that I can diagnose a bad regulator prior to a sortee and prevent catastrophy if it is over pressure. These do not behave that way. I have mine in my box, supposedly fixed, and it seems to hold pressure, but I simply can't trust it when I can't test it and garantee it is ok to use. That being said, they are very very light and if I find a suitable Pressure relief valve I may go back to using them (as I would then have a safe, non explosive way of knowing on the water that the regulator needs attention.
I should have mentioned... I was putting some effort into this and I found part number 5784T11 at www.mcmaster.com for 15$. Which might be just the ticket set at 175 psi (or even 150, I tend to run everything at 140)
Greg, I have a question on your problem. Did you order the 250psi relief valve on the regulator? If so does that mean it was frozen and didnt vent in order to save your tubing? I am new to MWCI but the only bursting I had heard of was due to hoses blown off fittings. Did your hose burst? I just ordered a palmer PPSP010LP Low pressure stabilizer. It did not come with the 250psi relief valve, I had to request it as an extra. It comes with the 1/8 npt fitting and as such has thicker walls than the standard regulator. Based on the freezing issue I am hoping that with the thicker walls it wont have a problem. I am not sure if having thicker walls will insulate it better and offer better disapation of the cold OR get colder. As a note I plan to use 1/4 tubing for max airflow... I hope its not a problem Johnny
The regulator would not hold a constant pressure, and they DID find a problem TWICE as previously stated. It was not a freezing issue. Quite frankly, if it just went to a different setting that is one thing but a slow drift is not readily testable and is what scares me about them.
I use Palmer regs on both of my Autococker paintball guns. In the years that I have owned them I have adjusted them maybe once. The only time one ever failed was when the O-Ring got dry and cracked (hadnt oiled it in months) They hold a constant 250psi for me and the secondary reg (what you guys use as a primary reg) holds 100psi (what the pnumatics work off of) with out fail. But thats just a little insite into 'other' uses for their regs and other experiences with them.
I have 2 of the Palmers, both failed as I didn't do the maintenance to them. I ordered the kit and fixed both (there is even a video on how to do this). No issues in 5 + years of use (other then new seals-kit). I now replace the seals at the beginning of the year and keep the regulator oiled throughout the year.
There is a picture of it on page 5 of the cleveland build. It did come with a 5/32 right elbow (chrome color).
