Hey there. I figured I'd start my own thread, and since there's no clubs in Montreal (the closest are in Ontario or Nova Scotia), I'll need your advice on building this beast. A bit of background on myself and my girlfriend/chief engineer. I'm 25, a technician at a large webhosting company (Visit this site, shameless plug) and I've been lurking these forums and others for years before having the time, and financial/emotional stability to get in the hobby. Most of my modelling is limited to plastic 1/35 armour kits. My girlfriend is 30, and a autocad graphist specialized in steel structures. Her modelling experience is with resin Warhammer 40k miniatures, including vehicles and airbrushing. We're both completely psyched about this hobby and want to get it active in Montreal. We recently purchased the first half (minus cannons and tx/rx/servos) of a BC Scharnhorst kit. We've got all our mats ready, have sanded the hull and are ready to draw our first lines. I'll post pictures either today or tomorrow of the measurements we took, although we're not sure how many vertical ribs she must have, or where to place the horizontal rib (accross the armor bulge I think). We also want to get the rudders and propellor setup absolutely perfect, and with no one to double-check our work other than you, expect plenty of pictures. Water channeling will be self-leveling concrete filler. That's about all I can think of for now, will post pictures ASAP.
I guess I will get this Party Started then. First what club rules set do you think you will wish to battle under since you seem to be wanting to start a club in your area? Each Club rules set is a little different so that will be important. Do you want to try and also do things with the other near by clubs? If so then you may wish to follow the same rules set as those other clubs. Having others from areas outside yours come to battle or going to them is part of the fun. Well for now I think this has things started off good and since you have lurked for a while I am sure you allready know the answers which will help us help you with knowing those answers.
Good questions, and ones I forgot to answer. Ontario Attack Force and North Atlantic Battle Squadron both use IRCWCC rules, so I'll stick to that here. I hope to have enough people to participate in CANNATS if not this year then next -- Until then my and my girlfriend hope to have 2 ships in the water by this summer to scrim with the guys in Ontario a few times.
Ok. Well Since I have only built to MWC rules I will only advise where I know the rules should be the same, but before you tape off and cut ribs defiantly make sure you fit the IRCWCC rules, but I am pretty sure that it is the same as MWC since I know a few MWC guys who change cannon formats on their ships to go battle IRCWCC at times. But any of the IRCWCC guys here can help keep you on the right track I am sure.
Here are the pics. Feel free to doodle and write measurements, my Chief Engineer will be most happy [] We don't have 1/8" tape yet, so we'll make the lines using 1/4" until we can find some and then take more pics.
Well Lorden, the number of ribs is up to you. You could have a hundred ribs, all skinny and spread throughout the ship, or you could have one really big rib smack dab in the middle (or anywhere else for that matter). If I remember correctly, you're allowed 15% of the total length of your ship to be impenetrable. (Don't quote me on this, check your local rules to be certain) That 15% includes your bow and stern impenetrables, as well as whatever ribs you want. I would recommend using 3/8" ribs with 3" penetrable windows. Throw any leftover impenetrable into the bow and stern. I suggest 3/8" ribs because they're thick and sturdy, and should not require any wooden backing or other reinforcement. The 3" penetrable windows provide enough leftover solid area for a decent bow and stern impenetrable, and the even spacing ensures a sturdy hull all around. I've seen people try to spread out the ribs in the middle and concentrate them more in the bow or stern, but I personally think that consistent, evenly spread ribs look neater.
It does look neater, but in fast gun, people tend to go for the Bow area. Also you want the most ribs possible, so 1/4 is what to use. Total ribs allowed for Scharny. Formula for 1/4 in ribs. 771 x 12 / 144 x .15 - 3 x 4 = 26 ribs Formula for 3/8 in ribs. 771 x 12 / 144 x .15 - 3 x 2.67 = 17.7 ribs so 17, 3/8 ribs, and 1, 1/4 rib, for a total of 18. I like the 26 better for this boat, it will allow you to place a few more up front where it matters. Follow the Maryland build for prop and rudder installation. The hardest thing you will do on this boat, is make that first cut in your nice hull. Of course she is a 3 screw ship, so your installation will be a bit easier for the props, but with the narrow stern, dual rudders can be a pain to install. You may want to get your center prop installed first, and then look at the rudder installation, moving them forward and as close as possible to the props. Which will move the rudders forward just a bit, which will help with the inside running gear installation. Just a thought.
Guys, Sorry I haven't posted any pictures yet, I have been bed ridden with the flu since last saturday. If I feel better I will get some shots posted this weekend. As far as rib placement, I used 1/4" ribs on my Scharny, which appears to be pretty common on fast gun ships. I ended up removing one rib in the stern, and adding it in the bow in order to make it a bit sturdier (this is where you are going to be hit a lot). When marking out your ribs, you need to make sure you have a rib straddling the start and the end of the armor belt (the armor belt should start in the middle of this rib). For my scharny, I marked these two ribs first, marked the ones in between equidistant from each other, and then marked the ones in the bow and stern. Also, Do not forget to float test the hull and mark your waterline before you start cutting. You will likely sit quite a bit lower in the water than the waterline on your plan when you are at full weight.
What I'd like to have is the outer limits so I can tape them off right away. I know I get 2 inches horizontally from the bow, but I need information for the stern, from the bottom of the hull going up, and from the deck going down. Also I know I'll need to put a 1/4 horizontal rib along the armor bulge, with 1/16 above and 1/16 below the bulge. Above the bulge I need to marke off a second set of windows, but since the deck is about 1 inch above the bulge, I'm not sure how high those windows can be.
First measurement you make is from the top of the deck, you measure down 3/8 inch, plus add 1/64 to it for right now, after you start sanding, and adding the resin between the sub deck and main deck. When finished it should be back to 3/8 inch. Just measure in 1 inch from the stern, following the curvature of the hull. If it straight up and down no problem. If not it will angle in a little as you move down. The armour belt is 1/8 in, not 1/4 in, I think you have a typo.
Hey from Nova Scotia. There are two members of N.A.B.S. in New Brunswick One in Saint John and one moving to Fredericton. Our club is already plannig to battle there, but were all small gun. Just a thought
Hey, Your stringer will go along the top of the armor belt, will be 1/8" tall, with 1/16" above and 1/16" below the top edge of the armor belt. When you sheet you will do it in two pieces, one extending from the deck to the top of the armor belt (the bottom portion will be glued to the 1/16" part of your stringer above the belt). And from the belt to the base of your hull (with the top glued along the bottom 1/16" part of your stringer. You will also have a rib at each end of the armor belt that will be bi-sected by the end of the belt. This way you have an anchor for your sheets that cover your belt, and for the sheets that extend to the stern and bow. Hope this helps
Hey Lorden, I'm one of the NABS members currently being bounced around the country by our wonderful armed forces, I'm most in Kingston for the university year, then I should (unless I'm told otherwise soon) be in St. Jean-Sur-Richelieu for 5-16 weeeks in the summer. I'd love to see what you guys were up to with the Scharnhorst, I might be able to help you out a bit. Your wife is an autocad specialist?! That should be interesting... I've always wondered how superstructure modeled via CAD and then milled/molded/whatever your construction method of choice is would work out. Might be a tad expensive unless you had access to all the gear...which I'd assume she does[] Have you contacted anyone in the OAF yet? Last I heard some of them were trying a new "treaty" ruleset. I lost contact with them when I moved to Kingston, so I don't know what the end result was.
I was talking to one of the OAF members tonight, I mentioned your project to him, he tells me that there's a HMS Hood somewhere in Mtl, but he wasn't sure if it was going to be used for combat as he never talked to the guy directly. If you're talking to Dan in the OAF see if you can track down the owner of the Hood.
I'm sorry to tell you that Dan McGuffin from OAF passed away of a heart attack about a month ago. As for you being in St-Jean, that's pretty close to Montreal, I'm sure we'll be able to meet up and we could always use the help!
Woops! Well that somehow didn't come up in the conversation... thats really a shame. Dan was a great guy to talk to and I'd guess battle with as well. Definately hope so, I've been getting that boat itch recently but have been too busy with my engineering studies to look at it seriously[xx(]
The pointy stick could be prepped to take on a Bismarck in a day or two, but I'd really like to totally overhaul it, I've picked up some tricks I'd love to try here at RMC. Issue is I have 38 hours of university engineering courses, then 11 hours of physical training, then drill, and then on and on. And my room is the size of a small closet and is inspected regularly...Maybe if I built it a coffin it could go in the storage room, but then it wouldn't be around in NS when I am to battle... What are you thinking Mr I sink Nagato's with little boats with crap pumps?
With all that engineering knowledge in the less fuzzyone's head I would presume you would have created the super pump to keep it afloat by now.
