I have been looking online at motors and I have found 4 from (www.allelectronics.com). Im not sure which one to go with, Im also not sure how to choose the correct electronic speed control. I know its by using the stall amp rating but these motors dont have a stall amp raiting just a no-load rating. The motors I found are as listed. Mabuchi # RF-500TB-12560 : 1.5 - 12 Vdc. 2700 rpm @ 6 Vdc, 0.20 Amp - no-load rating. 2180 rpm W/ 11.6 g/cm load, 0.084 Amps. KIP # 7E3023L : 1.5 - 6 Vdc / 20 mA no-load rating. Mabuchi # FK-280PM : 6 - 20 Vdc range, 40 mA @ 12 Vdc. Mabuchi # RC-260SA : 13,700 rpm @ 4.5 Vdc, 0.24 Amp (no load rating) Out of the motors above which would be the best to use? Im also still looking at motors but thats all I found now that seemed like they might work.
If you look on the Mabuchi website you can get all sorts of performance data on all the motors they make.
Ah thanks SnipeHunter, I didnt think to do that. I went to Dumas`s page to see what motors they had for their models
I found one on their site under R/C that is a RS-540RH 5045. Not sure of the price of that one but its a 4.5 - 9.6V range with 11,600 rpm and 0.82 Amp under no load and at stall its 20.4 Amp. So basicly I would need to go with a 25 Amp limit Speed control them correct? Would also have to run two if i run two of these motors or go with a 40 amp limit that would be be alittle less than I need since two motors stalled would be at 40.8 amps.
Thats the motor I use, I really like it. I bought 10 of them brand spankin new for $5 each. I got mine directly from mabuchi but thats not really a good way to do it since they arent set up for low quantity retail sales. However I have seen them in my local hobby shop so you can probably find a hobby supplier somewhere. expect them to draw between 1 and 3 amps each when installed in your boat, of course that depends on the gearing, props, voltage etc. thats what Ive experienced with different gearing and prop combinations. As for the speed controller, yeah, if you are running two motors on one speed controller then it should be able to handle the total current. You can run two ESC's or one beefy ESC or you could fuse them which has its own pros and cons. I only run one controller but I make sure its nice and beefy, that and i do everything i can to keep the current down and keep the ESC cool so it doesnt burn up. The only ESC ive burned up was due to connecting wires wrong while i was working on it on the bench cause i was frustrated and wasnt paying attention to what I was doing.
I dont know if the one I see had cooling tubes mounted for liquid cooling but I know I found one for 40 amps it would be 0.8 amps less than the two motors put together as they said for the stall amp. It says its 100% waterproof design, if thats the case then I wouldnt have to mount it in a box. The one im looking at is a Viper Marine 40 forward and reverse speed control from Hunter Systems Electronic. As far as the gearing goes I was thinking about running a gear reduction to gear it to run the correct speed. I started to think about using direct drive without any transmission and then installing resistors to control the speed. I did plan on installing some vents in the deck to help get some air circulation. Not sure which would be easier to use to get the correct speed using gears or resistors. If anyone knows of any other place to find motors I could use some help there. The motor I found on Mabuchi`s website Im trying to find through a store.
I'm running 4 550 size motors with direct drive to the props on a 6 volt system. using 2 viper marine 40's each running 2 motors, hooked in parallel to the controller with inline fuses on each motor (that way if one locks up and blows its 15amp fuse the other will still function. if you hook the motors in series and the fuse blows, you will lose propulsion on both motors) I paid around $75.00 for each of my vipers
Dont use resistors. They would work but they waste a lot of energy as heat which you dont want, and there are easier and better ways. I gear my drive system so im a little fast and then just bring the speed down to legal using the adjustable endpoints on my radio.(so even when the stick is at full throw the esc only thinks its at 90% or whatever.) That lets you change your top speed while standing on shore and can make speed testing and getting on the correct speed quick and painless.
All Electronics is a good source. Since they deal in surplus, stock can vary. You're not trying to get maximum speed, so racing motors are way overkill. I like tool motors, myself (i.e., cordless drill etc.). Pretty slow. I generally look for something in the 6-8000 RPM range. 2mm shaft is going to be tough to find a coupler for. Guess only: Not much torque. 0.1" shaft is going to be hard to couple. Small/odd shaft size & generally a pretty small motor. These will burn up after a few minutes on 6V (I know!). Also, it's going to be a challenge to find a coupler for the 2mm shaft. I've used the following with excellent results: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-231/400200/FAN-COOLED_6-12_VDC_MOTOR_.html http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-229/400200/3-12_VDC_MOTOR_.html http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-266/400200/DC_MOTOR,_3-24_VDC_.html http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-267/400200/DC_MOTOR,_3-24_VDC_.html Note one aspect in common: 1/8" shafts. I use 1/8" shafting throughout my ships & it's very convenient to standardize on all my connectors, adapters, couplers, gears, sprockets, etc. to fit this size. Fitting 1/8" prop shafts to 1/8" motors is a no-brainer; fitting 1/8" prop shafts to 2mm motors? A little more challenging. Electronic Speed Control (ESC) attributes that you should look for: - Waterproof. Even when you don't sink (you will - that's a BIG part of the fun of combat!) there will be water in your hull. You can enclose a non-waterproof ESC, or choose a waterproof model. Personally, I like the convenience of a waterproof model, plus it cuts down on the internal space needed. - Instant reverse. Many ESCs are made for cars/trucks & have a delay when you go to reverse. Many "marine" ESCs don't have reverse at all,
That's my personal favorite for battleship applications. As much "safety cushion" in the power rating, above what you expect to be the max. current drawn, is a good idea. The closer you get to the device's limit, the more likely you are to let the "magic smoke" out. Depending on what's available, go with at least a 25A (or 40A for 2 motors), but even more is better if you can find it. If you expect 2 motors, stalled, to draw 40.8A, then an ESC rated for 50A, 60A, or more would be a good idea. Don't think about the cost difference between a 40A & a 60A unit; think about the cost of replacing a 40A unit twice a year! JM
JohnmCA72, Thats what I was thinking I found a marine esc that was a Sonik4 Super Marine - Forward and Reverse Speed Control, it says it has a Instant reverse 6-12 volts, and 75 Amps. I thinking I might get by with the 75 Amp for three motors. I desided to hold off on building a New York class battleship and Im going to build a troop transport since in scale it would be roughly 80.115" in length, 7.7083" in width, 8.6" from the keel to the boat deck, 5.0416" from the water line to the boat deck, 13.85" from the keel to the funnel top, 10.3216" from the water line to the funnel top. Not sure about the mast but the mast goes up higher than the funnels so its probably a good estimate to say 15 to 17 inches from keel to mast top. Will also be allowed to run a 90 GPH pump since the ships displacement is almost 51,000 tons and 1/16" hull since the hull was only 2" thick but I need to email ntxbg again and see if I can run a double hull since the orignal ship had a double hull. In scale it would be less than 5 cm gap between the two or if i could run a size up in thickness. I also looked at the fan cooled motor with the built in fan. I was thinking about getting that but wasnt sure if water would destory it or not. Good to know that it has been used. Would make it easier for me to get some air circulation going inside the hull
Air circulation won't matter. What you want to do is set everything up so that the motor runs nice & comfortably, not taking too much power & not getting all hot & bothered. The fan shouldn't be needed, but doesn't hurt anything. It adds about 1/2" to the overall length of the motor, but that won't matter, either. JM
Nope it shouldnt. I was just saying air circulation cause I was going to test out a theory and in the main deck make some curved vents to help direct air into the hull when moving and see which provides the best economy. If i can keep the motor cool it should use less energy and should increase how long the battery will last before running out.
If you're trying to keep the motors cool why dont you just water cool them? That works a lot better then air cooling and its not like you wont have a large supply of water to use. With careful placement of inlet ports you can have the waterpressure on your bow push water through the system and then at the other end have the props to help pull it through.
