Radio Buttons

Discussion in 'Electrical & Radio' started by mike5334, Nov 21, 2007.

  1. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Mississippi
    Hi all!

    I'm having a difficult time trying to track down a schematic for installing push buttons on the Polk transmitter. I found one for an Airtronics transmitter, but I'm not sure if that would work for the Polk.

    Can anyone guide me in the right direction here?

    Thanks!

    Mike
     
  2. JohnmCA72

    JohnmCA72 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2006
    Posts:
    681
    I'd go with the tried & true method used on Futaba, Hitec, & others. Find the potentiometer(s) that you want to replace. Each end should have a red & black wire, with a wire of some other color on the wiper. If in doubt, get out your multimeter & check voltages as well as continuity (ohms) between various points. Note that, for the basic logic circuitry (including sticks, switches, & other inputs) the transmitter's 7.2V main power is probably stepped down to about 5V. This means that you probably won't find continuity directly between the battery + & the red wire on any potentiometer, but you should be able to find 5V somewhere close to where the battery connects to the circuit board, & then find continuity between THAT point & the potentiometers. 0V (-) should be continuous all the way from the battery (-) to the black leads to the potentiometers. The variously-colored wires from the potentiometers' wipers should all go to different pins on a single chip (encoder).

    Of course, it's not MY radio! ;) Any modification will no doubt void your warranty!

    JM
     
  3. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    1,877
    Location:
    Mississippi
    I finally got it straighted out and done. The confusion was over which color wire went where. Futaba and other radios have a white common wire going to the center of the pot. On the Polk system, it was a red wire. So when I tried to wire it up using the Futaba/Airtronic wiring how-tos, it wouldn't work.

    Eventually, I borrowed a multimeter, figured out that the red wire was the common wire and rewired accordingly. It worked. :)