Strike Models Solenoid Review

I came back from Nats with a Strike Models solenoid from the give-away table. I had to wait until September to give it a try in a battle but finally got my chance.
I sat it side by side with my Kip solenoid and noticed the obvious, the strike models solenoid is larger overall. The weight is only slightly more as I had to use a brass reducer for the output port (they now have plastic reducers) and with the new reducer probably the same.
I use parker 1/4 hose and push-quick fitting so I had all the parts I needed to put this together. The input port is 1/8 npt so I just screwed on of those fittings in. I didnt have to worry about using tape as the parker fittings have the sealant applied to the threads.
I worked at fitting the solenoid into the ship and finally found the right spot. I have not used a accumulator tank on my bow for the kip and dint for the Strike solenoid.
Internally the plunger looked very much like the kip plunger, making me wonder if they are inter-changeable. Maintenance should be as easy as with the kips perhaps even easier.
Overall the performance was no different from the kip as far as I can tell. In fact I forgot all about the solenoid during the battle until I got home, I had forgotten to think about it and evaluate it. I take that as a good sign. I would like to do test firing back to back by switching between the solenoids to see how each one affects the tweak of the gun but haven't had time. I would lean towards the one that would allow the harder tweak of course. I will have to let you know later.
Overall I was very pleased with its performance and would use it in the future.
Thanks,
Johnny

Here is a link to the Strike Models page for the solenoid: www.strikemodels.com/products/tanks-and-regulators/
Here is a picture of the solenoid mounted in the ship.

Here is a picture of the solenoid from the Strike Models website:

 

If I remember right, the Kips has a 3/32 oriface and is the only difference really between the 2.

 

I have one of these solenoids as well. I was planning to run some tests on it today at the build-session, but I totally forgot about it.
Mikey

 

Need to add a diode. I dont have the dimensions handy but will measure it later

 

What is the cost comparison?

 

I think kips are 50 and these are 32 or so.

 

I am looking into them also. So if anybody has any up dates, that would be nice.
TIA, Skippy

 

What's the purpose of an internal flyback diode?

 

After solenoid valves activates, immediately after the supply voltage drops, there is a voltage spike that can seriously damage other components in the circuit. The diode prevents this.
For a more techie explination: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode#Working_Principle

 

I think the solenoids from strike are for irrigation thay look alot a like
http://www.klsupplies.com/images/irrigation/solenoid.jpg

 

I'll bet Stephen would provide you with documentation on his solenoids, if you asked.

 

Hello,

The valve components are indirectly from ECI. The company I got these from did a custom coil in large quantity that happened to meet our needs. Like many things in this hobby, the valves were not designed for this purpose (these were designed for water), but they work well. My rep was pleasantly surprised how low the voltage would go and still get good response. I actually received a couple of their test coils, and the one they finalized on happened to be the one that worked best for us. During testing at 6.4 volts, the coils were opening past 230 psi with the 1/16" orifice but took as long as half a second at 3/32". That is why the 3/32" orifice needs a higher voltage. The coils are the same between them, just the base with the orifice is different.

Many people are understandably concerned about the smaller orifice in this valve. My response is to look at the rest of the gun system, as well. Typical fast gun cannons have three additional 1/16" orifices in them: two at the base under the interrupter pin and the third at the end of the magazine. A fourth orifice of similar size will make some difference to the flow, but not a lot. For those cannons that are fully plumbed with 1/8" ID tubing and are considered high-flow, I would not recommend these valves. The 3/32" orifice ones should do nicely, though. It should also be possible for me to get 1/8" orifice versions, but the voltage will have to be still higher.

The coils are 14 ohms, so they will be drawing less than half an amp at 6 volts. The coils are rated to 24 volts AC (hence no flyback diode), so we can use them in any boat that does not have a 110 extension cord tether. Because the coils have a higher resistance than many, it is quite viable to run them off of smaller batteries. I've run them off of 18650 and AA sized cells without a problem. The coil is fully sealed (potted).

Dimensions: The coil diameter is 1.32", the overall unit is 2.42" long, and the orifice section is 1.65" (without adapters).

If there are any other questions I can answer on this, please let me know.

Thank you,

Stephen Morgret
Strike Models

 

I have not yet tested below 6 volts. Good call. I'll find out just how low the voltage can go with acceptable response times for the 1/16" and 3/32".

Stephen Morgret
Strike Models

 

With some creative battery stacking, I have some good data on what voltage the 1/16" orifice solenoid will fire. The voltages listed are for batteries not under load (I can only test one thing at a time), but it is realistic to what you can actually test for at the pond.
At 160 psi and 5.27 volts, everything fires nicely. At 160 psi and 5.08 volts, the solenoid opens slowly (not acceptable). Also at 5.08 volts but at 150 psi, the valve opens nice and fast. The valve does not open at all at 150 psi and 4.47 volts. The gauge used is 0-300 psi and calibrated to +/- 1% full scale.
I'll be testing the 3/32" orifice one as soon as I can.

Stephen Morgret
Strike Models

 

Why would it open faster with a lower psi?

 

Less pressure to hold it closed.