Having been inspired by Bikefish, I am also going to build the USS New York, BB34. I was born not far from New York and I like the ship. I have found bikefish's photos to be helpful but I will be building my New York differently from his/hers. This could be interesting. Manuel Mejia, Jr.
What is different: A. No epoxy--read the post I made on Epoxy Burn/Allergy elsewhere. B. I use dollar tree plain gift bag tissue instead of silkspan to wrap areas not subject to penetration such as the hull bottom. I keep the silkpan for the penetration sites since it is not as easy to buy it like it was in past years. C. I use waterbased polyurathane to seal the finish. I have not read much about the use of that compound but I find it works and is waterproof. (Minwax) D. I elected to build the World War One configuration for the superstructure. Manuel Mejia, Jr.
Regarding the super configuration, I was under the impression that the same rebuild where the super was altered is when they widened the hull and that Mark's (RCENGR) laser cut kit is of that widened hull, isn't it?
That is correct, the hull was widened in the 1920s to better handle torpedo strikes and to better handle fuel oil as coal was phased out. I choose the WWI configuration because it was a cleaner SS (no pom-poms guns every so many feet). MMJR
The superstructure needs to match the hull form. If it is bulged (which the kit is), then the superstructure "should" resemble that of a 1926 version or later. However, I also believe that super structure is just fluffery and all you really need is a cereal box from what I hear. poke poke... Tugboat
I prefer the term 'post-consumer semi-scale oriented-paper-strand decorative structure', vice the more pedestrian 'cereal box' terminology that some use...
That is only a problem for those of us sticking to the main rulesets. MMJR is operating under the rules of Austerity and while I'm a bit fuzzy on the requirements there, strict adherence to prototype does not seem to be one of them.
Greetings: My main reason for picking the WW1 configuation is because it is a relatively simple Superstructure. I am not too good at tripod mast building, I like the 2 funnels, and the deck is relatively clean. The WW2 version has the X-Band radar mast (which still exists and is being restored), one funnel was removed, and 2 tripod masts added along with enough Flak gunnery, pom-poms, and Chicago organs to make the ship look like a stillborn porcupine. In any regard, I too have seen some vey rudamentary superstructures being used. Mine would actually look like it was engineered in 1914. MMJR
I have not coined the Austerity ruleset but I am reminded of Steampunk... (basic hull type, one prop, one rudder) BB34 will have the 2 props. Oh, properly done, cereal boxes can make great target ships. I may build one since I have plenty of tissue and Model Airplane dope. MMJR
The kit has been in a secret location gathering dust so that when Ms. Admiral see it, I can say "it has been here 6 months." I am still learning how to assemble a ship. This is why I am building BB27 as a test article. I have been putting the finishing touches on my version of the USS Michigan BB-27. I finished painting it and am about ready to arm it. I want to get it done first to test an idea for mounting the one cannon, RC servos, and going (almost) fiberglass/epoxy less (I use some JB weld to hold and seal the prop shaft to the hull). I have spent only about $25 on balsa wood for the BB-27. I am hoping BB27 can help me catch any massive fowlups. I hand carved the 4 turrets and know how to do it for the Empire State. I also have a better idea about how to do the Superstructure (which I was bad at before). I am also seeing what I can get for a "floor" in terms of costs for materials for a ship. Requirements: One Gun--$70, one pump--$30, RC gear (from a hobbyshop)--$90 with servos and receiver (mail order is less but you cannot bargain for a complete system), a rudder and a 1 3/4" prop--$20, and a 550 motor--$5.00. Add to that about $10 of acrylic paint, brushes, and polyurathane--low odor and washable with water when wet, I have a dreadnaught for $225. This is about as low as you can go with a combat ship. I have to get some photos of the Michigan before I proceed any further ! Empire State will be a different, more expensive job. I have to use 2 motors, 2 prop shafts, 2 one inch 3 bladed brass props, and more cannons. I also have to get some time out in the water with a cannon ship, not just a surface cruiser. While I would have preferred to start on the Empire State now, I wanted to beef up my building skills to get ready for that ship. I made that decision as soon as I opened the box and looked at the part assortment. MMJR
Nick: I think MMJR just does it because he can. He wants to see the world burn. MMJR: Well well. Good to hear you are still busy! Theo M.
Not really! RCENGR told me about him when i asked if he knew anyone in florida. I previously asked how his New York was doing because i bought that kit recently and i'm awaiting its arrival. Theo M.
Greetings: To answer a few questions: 1. I change the font because I prefer seif fonts over sans serf fonts. Reading the standard font is hard on my eyes. I do wear eyeglasses. 2. Although I will not compare myself to Nick's Col. Klink, I do get the feeling I am playing Col. Hogan in this forum. I do not not think I fit into the Hogan character (insufficient savoui fair) :blush:. Klink is an honorable Axis man. He would have been a great neighbor. 3. I am not Lucifer, my dog is not named Cerberous, and she has only a single head. I am not the gin from the Wishmaster series. I am just a $15k Florida educator fighting illiteracy, poverty, gangs, and mentoring the next generation so that they could achieve whatever dreams they have while becoming gentlemen and ladies. I do not think that I am the bringer of the great rapture. 4. I forgot the regulator and tank. I was fortunate to get the little disposable CO2 tanks and regulator from Strike. I hope to get more of these GI regulators some day. The floor cost is now around $300. The little regulator allows for smaller ships and independance from large CO2 filling stations. I have read that one GI CO2 cartridge is good for 50 rounds. This is perfect for a beginner. I will have to use the bigger tank for the New York due to the extra guns. I have many pennies to save and more experimentation. Cheers to all--Manuel Mejia, Jr, Astatula, FLA (there the biggest news was the installation of the first stop light at the town center a few years back.)>
Hogan? No, as you say, its not a good fit for you. I always favored you as Col Crittendon though. A man of such dashing and daring plans, and clear sense of purpose.
