Ok, I am now the proud third owner of an Atlanta class cruiser. Lots of work to be done in order to get her ready for the 2012 MWC Nats. So, lets get started. Hull is a BattlersConnection, the super structure will need to be replaced as well as motors-shafts and rudder setup. The slipway is clear for a major but fast refit. Here is the original boat, the super is 1/16th ABS and not fitted to the decks. The decks are attached with servo arms, I will be changing everything but the hull on this rebuild. Bow shot, was originally setup to use a cut down Williams regulator. Foam is to create a water channel. The holes in the deck are where I have already removed the servo arms. Direct drive small motors (they are seized up), O-clamps to hold them in the boat. I will be replacing these with my own 380 geared motor mounts. Angle of the drive motors, they sit too high in the hull. Rudder servo was effective, but I am not a fan of a single arm attachment. I will be replacing this with either a geared mount or double arms, depends on how much room I have to work with in the stern. Prop shafts are not centered, I will tear these out and make a jig to center them. Props should sit closer to the hull. In the current state, the thrust is going down instead of parallel to the keel. Speed is very important to this little ship, so this will be corrected as well by installing new shafts. Stay tuned...
The hull has been stripped of the subdeck and deck, motors removed and all foam removed. The motor mounts were secured through the hull with nuts superglued, this left two big holes to be filled. The sander went through the hull in a couple of places as well while removing old resin/superglue. Prop shafts have been removed as well. The shot below is the hull after rough sanding and being spayed with primer, still lots to do but this will get us started. Using a mix of micro balloons and west system epoxy, I placed tape on the outside of the hull over all the penetrations and spread the mixture inside the hull. We are now back to a hull that has had the sides cut out, everything else is ready for building. Deck was traced on the old one prior to removal. I am using 1/16th electrical fiberglass sheets, no need to waterproof and easy enough to cut with a jig saw. I have traced the inside line (rough guess) at this point, I need to place items in the hull to see where the deck hold downs will need to go. I will have a lip on one side of the hull that the deck will slide into, on the other side I will have magnets that will create a strong but quick removing seal. The Deck on this boat will actually be comprised of three decks, but the weight is not excessive for a well sealed hull. If you look closely at the deck, you will see the preliminary bump out for the pump outlet holder. So once I have placed the items in the hull, I will be able to figure out the placement of the cross bars and where I need to mount the magnets. So tempting to mount the deck at this point, but being patient will be rewarded later.
This will be a fun build to watch. Just over a month to go! I love the Atlantas, they look very nice under water I mean... ON the water. Who'd you get the hull from, Lou?
Originally built/owned by Joel Goodman, then Tim Krakowski and now me. Top weight will be very important in this build, same issue with the ones in real life. Tim wanted to refit her, but he had little time and it worked "well enough".
Ohhh... that's Tim's Atlanta. Great! She's always been fun to battle; the refit will just make her more fun! I wonder what Adam will be driving in the future, then? What are you making the deck from?
Clark, Time to get new glasses From the text: Deck was traced on the old one prior to removal. I am using 1/16th electrical fiberglass sheets, no need to waterproof and easy enough to cut with a jig saw. Tim has quite the boatyard, Adam has plenty to choose from, believe me.
I will buy new glasses for the next battle you come to We miss you lakeside! I used similar stuff but thinner, for my Gearing's decks. I have enough left to refit Othar I didn't know that they made it in 1/16", handy to know.
New batteries ordered, this should help control the weight in the ship. Will be using two per set. LiFePO4 38120 (M size) Cell: 3.2v 10Ah, 100A Surge Rate, 32Wh w/ 6M screw Terminal - UN Approved Nominal Voltage: 3.2v Capacity: 10Ah (10000mAh) nominal, 9800mAh minimum Energy Density: 82.05 wh/kg Charging Rate: 10A recommended, 20A Max. Discharging Rate: 100A Max Cycle Life: >2000 (80% of initial capacity at 1C rate) Operating Temperature: Charging@ 0 to 45 oC (32 to 113 o F), Discharging@ -10 to 60 oC (14 to 140 o F) Dimension: 38mm (1.5") x 120mm (4.7") without screw --145mm (5.7") w/ screw Weight: 12oz (340g)
I am watching this one. I love the looks of the Altanta's. Maybe this will lead me to building one. Keep up the great work. Kim
Built the bottle holder, this was fiber glassed to the hull for strength. The rods are used with a Velcro strap to keep the bottle from moving, the fiberglass strips hold the bottom of the bottle in place. In the bow is foam covered with fiberglass board (1/32), the white stuff is sealer. Another shot of the foam covered in fiberglass sheeting. Cut out the bottom of the boat so I could install the gear boxes and shafts. Everything was done with West System Epoxy and fiberglass cloth. In this view you can see the three deck design, all three are made of 1/32 board. The shafts are almost parallel to the keel, this is as good as it gets. Reusing some gearboxes, I cast them myself for 380 motors. Pump outlet is installed through the deck. For holding down the deck I am working with rare earth magnets. As one side of the deck slips into place, the other side needs something to hold it down. So the bump outs I put in the sub deck are utilized for holding the magnets in place. On the deck, I carefully grind out some of the material and place the magnet in the groove. I will use epoxy and fiberglass to make these permanent.
isn't 1.5lbs a little heavy for batteries in that ship? Not if you build light. I really like the new batteries and this is the only option at this time.
Well, i'm sure you can do it with that weight of batteries in there, but it will bring you close to the max weight (with extra added allowance) for that ship. I have an Atlanta also that isconstructed similarily to yours with fibreglass board for decks. Just be sure to be careful when doing the SS, this is where most people go wrong with this type of ship I think.
