Looks like the New Jersey guys are starting to build some ships. I'm starting to build my USS maryland but,WOW, looks hard. It really doesn't say how to install the sub and main deck but it says to do it before cutting windows. Anyone know where the decks go in relation to the top hull edge? I think I understand where the line goes for the top line on windows(3/8 inch from top edge)Window line bottom is hard to understand. Have to read a dozen times to maybe get it.
Im trying to get a NYBG build session going so we can get some assistance from those who know what they're doing. Darticus-do you mean the bottom of the top window or the bottom of the bottom window?
The top of the top windows I think are done by measuring down 3/8 inch from the top of hull and drawing a line from front to rear on both sides of ship. The window line bottom I think is the bottom of the lower group of windows one inch below the water line but I have to understand this better. Unless someone feels sorry for us and helps with suggestions this thing is gonna look like something from pizza hut! I have to study this more! Ron
I think the waterline is the border of the top and bottom windows, but I read the instructions last week. I might have missed something. And yes they are a little confusing.
Try to get together with Snipe is what advice I would give you. Its really not that hard, but it will be a issue to correct if you do it wrong. Yes you measure 3/8 down from the deck edge, but add another smidgen, like 1/32 or so, because when you add the resin on the subdeck, and the main deck, you don't want the main deck to extend up above the side of the hull. If you find your hull side is up just a tad after its all resined in, you can always just sand down the small bit of hull sticking up. Some people add the main deck to the subdeck just around the edges of the hull. So the main deck sits inside of the hull. Here is a picture to explain what I mean. Look at the area around the sides and the deck straight across. You also have to determine the total hard area. In fast gun its 15% total, subtracting the 3 inches for the 2" bow and 1" stern. So if the ship is 50 inches long, solid area total would be 7.5 inches. Subtract the 3 inches and you have 4.5 inches for ribs. Then you decide if you want 1/4 in or 3/8 in ribs. Go with the 1/4, and you would get 18 ribs total. Now for the cutting the windows, your waterline may not end up where the drawing shows it to be, due to the weight of the model. So you may want to wait till its all together, put it in the water and make sure it level right to left, and forward to stern, then mark the waterline. After you do that, you measure 1 inch down, which would be the bottom of the window. And measure 3/8 down from the deck edge for the top of the window. Any armour belt is 1/8 inch wide. If you plan the ribs right, by the rules you get to extend the belt out to the next rib, so you can have a bit more belt than you are suppose too. Again if you could arange a meet with Snipe would be your best bet.
djranier The USS Maryland is 52 inches long. So that and pie R SQUARE AND PIZZA HUT GIVES ME dOMINOES. wOW! coo-coo!Coo Coo!
Im alive, sorry Ive been in and out a lot recently, girlfriend is in town for her winter break so Ive been hanging out with her. I may be around on this sunday not sure yet, hopefully Ill know for sure tomorrow so if you guys want to do something I don't have much workspace but we can get some stuff done, ill let you know when I find out, if not this weekend maybe sometime soon in the future?
And you already have a great armour belt on that hull, I remember looking at it just before Rick shipped it too you. So you would leave 1/16 of a inch above, and 1/16 below the bulge, so that you have places to attach the balsa too. Even if Snipe just helps you tape up the hull, and explains the decking atachment is all you guys need really to get running.
On your ship you have a small bulge that runs from forward to stern down the side of the ship. it's actually the top of the extra torpedo armour bulge that was added to the ship in WW2. When you cut out the windows, you will get to leave that small roll as your armour belt. Just measure up 1/16 and down 1/16 from it, so that you have a 1/8 inch thickness from top to bottom of the armour belt, that gives you enough to attach your balsa to it. Here is a picture of my Nelson, but ignore it and look at the Mogami in the upper left hand corner, you can see all the windows cut out, and a armour belt running down the side of it. Hope this helps.
djranier From what you said I take the length of the ship USS Maryland 52 inches and divide by 15% which gives me 7.8 inches minus the 3 inch for bow and stern gives me 4.8 inches for ribs. If I use 1/4 inch ribs I have 19.2 and if I use 3/8 inch ribs I have 12.8 ribs. Do you round these off somehow? The top of the top window would be 3/8 + smidge from top of hull and would also be the bottom of the sub hull. After finding the water line, using the plans or floating you measure 1 inch down from the water line and this would be the bottom of the bottom windows. The water line would be the rib of 1/8 inch splitting bottom and top windows. How do you know where the armor belt starts and ends? Where the hull side lowers on my ship where the sub deck also is lowered. What happens to the step space between high and low see pic? djranier In you post you subtracted 3 inches from 7.5 inches and got 3.5 inches for ribs. That I think should have been 4.5 inches for ribs.Thanks Ron
djranier-what ship is that in the picture? Why not have outer drag props to make your amazing turn radius even better? Or is it just cheaper to have 4 smaller motors with the 3 rudders?
If there is anything left you can round it off. So your 19.2 ribs could be 19 at 1/4" and one that is 5/16". The .2 rib is not very usefull but if it was .5 or higher it would be. If you have one oddball rib that is thicker put it in line with a step deck for a little extra strength. Don't use 3/8" ribs.
Darticus The armour belt may or may not be on the waterline, again according to the model and how much it weights. I think yours may be just above the waterline when completed, unless your model is at max weight when completed. Just round to the nearest 1/4 inch for the ribs, I would do like BOB said and go with 19 myself, making 1 slightly wider. The ribs do not have to be evenly spaced out either, a mistake rookies make, I did it also. My Nelson was done evenily, but it took most of the dam in the bow, same as my Roma. On the Roma I went with like 8 ribs in the front with 1 inch spacing between them, then spread the rest down the length of the ship at around 3 inch spacing. Here is a picture of the PE I'm working on right now, so you can see what I mean about the rib spacing, up close in the bow, more spread out down the sides. It has no armour belt, just casemates. Yep for sure its 4.5, must of been a tyop, lol. On your boat it would just be the ridge you have running down the hull already, the top of the armour belt, on other boats it could be in different places. Under the picures section he has directions on how to do it, the first listing. How to post Photos or videos: Donanton Its a picture of my Roma, those are actually 4, 650 series motors, larger than what everone uses. I tried them because they are drawing very low current even when pushing the props in water, around 2.3 amps per motor. I'm able to run all day, 4 sorties, and use the same 36 amp battery with out changing it. The Littorio class is the only ship with that rudder configuration, it can actually turn while going backwards, but does not turn too well overall, since all the rudder area is split between 3 rudders.
I drew the top window and bottom window lines on my ship does this look right? See pic Do I now measure back 2 inches from the front and start to draw in windows with the armor belt 1/8 inch wide and 1/4 inch ribs? Windows can be any size but I need to use 19 ribs one rib a tad larger.
djranier How do you know where the armor belt starts and ends between bow and stern? How come the PE your working on only looks like it only has 13 or 14 ribs? Is it a shorter ship than mine? You don't have a armorbelt on your PE is that because you just don't want one. Ron
In your second picture I can just see the start of the armour belt on the left hand side, where it starts to bulge out a little bit. Also for the front 2 inches you follow the rake of the hull, so make multiple 2 inch measurements back from the front end. I took your pictures and drew on them a bit, just a quick picture, and yes before anyone says anything, no I'm not a artist, lol.
