Here is the build thread for the USS Missouri, which I plan to use for NATS next year. Over the past three years, I worked across from Missouri actual in Pearl Harbor. When I first came back to the mainland early this year, I considered building the Missouri, but decided against it due to build space, vehicle size, and complexity. However I mulled over the decision for a while, and sprung to buy a hull a few weeks ago. Someone has to soak up the bb's from 8 or however many Bismarcks. Here are a couple of pictures from the real Missouri that I took when I toured the ship just before leaving Hawaii. View from the water. There was a pretty nice model in the wardroom of the ship, showing a WWII configuration (panorama) And a couple more shots of the ship I also stopped by Philadelphia recently and grabbed a photo of the New Jersey from across the river. Now for the model. The cursory 'look at how big the box is' shot I float tested it the next day at 38, 42, 45, and 49 lbs. I think I will plan for around 45 lbs based on freeboard. A kettlebell is not a good weight to use in regard to stability, but I needed something heavy. I think this was 49 lbs. The top of the hull was not very clean, so I used the set of drawing from the Booklet of General Plans posted on this website to mark the correct sheer. I also had to show the Staples employees how to use their copy machine to scale the drawing. The deck height in the center of the ship came out to 4 and 7/16" above baseline (bottom of hull). There appears to be extra height in the bow and stern, though midships seemed about right. I will measure the tape out again before cutting (measure twice, or three times, cut once). Setup I have planned for this boat: -Brushless drive (Haven't sized motor yet) -Active drag (or whatever its called, with the outboard shafts providing thrust counter to center shafts) -1.9" kort props (Skeg distance to center is 1" scale, so that should work out) -a pump or two (Titan or brushless) -yuuuuggggeeeee batteries (TBD) -lots of lead I plan to work on this boat after making progress on the other build threads I have posted. First step after cutting the sheer will be skegs, plywood based and fiberglassed (as demonstrated on a few threads on here - thanks to those who posted in the past). Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I don't think you can do active drag... Stick with disks on the outboard shafts and power the inner shafts. For the lead, look at divers weights. This way you can remove them and save your back at the same time. http://www.divers-supply.com/lead-enterprises-shot-lead-2lb.html
Whether active drag is legal or not, I would recommend against it. I've set up a ship that way and been disappointed with the performance. At slow speeds the slower turning outer props have almost has much bite as the inner props. That really kills your acceleration. And at speed they really don't provide enough drag that you can get better turning.
Hello, how is it going? Did you ever finish your build of the USS Missouri? Can you post more pics for us to see? From what I have seen so far it looks like you are going to have an awesome ship upon her completion.
Still just starting. I paid another visit to the ship two weeks ago to verify some measurements and take more pictures. My plan is to mark and cut out the ribs this week/weekend, then move to the skegs. I think I'll make the skegs out of plywood with balsa in the middle, then fiberglass the whole thing.
Active drag is illegal. When I did it a few years back, like 5 or 6 now, it was amazing, took a few tries to get it setup right. I did it on a VU. That's when the MWC banned it, it would turn going forward or reverse, and rotate in forward or reverse. It had fantastic acceleration. I had center shafts on a TD board set at 33%, and a ESC on the outer shafts set to non-linear throttle curve. So when you gave it max throttle, the center shafts would drive the boat forward very fast, till the ESC outer shafts would come up to speed and add the drag. Bob H thought this was illegal, but I was just using the build in delay of the ESC was all. Happened very fast, but it did give it quite the hole shot as the ESC came up to speed. To make it rotate, I would throw it in reverse or forward for a second, then reverse the throttle, and it would start spinning on the forward turret, or rear turret. A couple of other guys started building their boats with the same system, but it was voted on and banned before anyone else could build one.
Thanks for the clarification Dave. I marked the windows and the skegs tonight. Here is the waterline to measure for the bottom of the windows. Used 1.25" freeboard for most of the length based on the float test at 45 lbs. Marked the bottom of the windows 1 3/8" below the line to account for thickness of waterline (1/8") and margin of error (1/4") Used the sections from the as-built plans for the skeg outline. Skegs will be the outer trapezoids. I will cut out the fiberglass, make the skegs out of 1/8" ply, then fiberglass from inside and out. Plan is to have the shafts 2" center to center, with 1.9" kort props. Taped out the ribs. Plan is eight 3/8" ribs and 20 1/4" ribs. The wider ribs are in the bow, spaced 1 5/8" center to center, extending back for the first 15" total from the bow.
Kevin, do you have a death wish? The Allied forces are going to be so outnumbered this coming year, no one will be able to try an back you up!
Yes Marty, I suppose I do. I figured that I have one of the more able backs out of the potential Allied fleet for a big boat. I like to have options, so I will see how the sides shake out, still a lot of work to get done between now and then. I cut the windows out yesterday. Started with 1/8" holes per usual Only took 1:45 to cut out both side, 4 cut off disc unfortunately. Hard to get the whole boat in one photo. Stern with cut out for skegs I was pleased with the hull thickness, since historically I've had to add layers of glass on the inside.
Looking great. Keep up the good work and please keep us updated. Looks like she is going to be a helluva boat.
Does anyone have battery recommendations, such as amp hours per sortie/battle? My plan is to run two brushless drive motors, and two titan pumps (6V nominal). Also, should I be using significantly larger brushless drive motors than on class 5 boats? It will have two 1.9" Kort props. I run 36mm NTM 800kV motors in other boats at 4S with plenty of power to spare, but should I look for something closer to 42mm for the added torque?
Those cyclindrical 15 amp batteries that Tim B, Chris P, and I use are 10c batteries. so 150 amps draw, will run anything just about. They were using 8 of them with brushed setup. In the Iowa you can run 12 with no problem, still only about 12 pounds of weight. run 9.6v, 3 in series, so 4 sets will give you 60 amps. They were running all day on 8 batteries. Chargers are cheap. http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4...150ASurge-Rate-48Wh-with-6M-screw-Termin.aspx Or go with the 10 amp size, and just run 15, still will give you 50 amps at 9.6 volts, and are a little cheaper. http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4...gerate32whwith6mscrewterminal-unapproved.aspx Look on E-bay, you will find them even cheaper, I got my 15 amp for $28 a few years back. I like the 10 amp just because they fit in anything, even my cruiser.
Build the boat Kevin, by my count Allies will have 4 more N.C / S.D. class boats plus 3 Q.E.s We probable lost the Vanguards but remember last year we slaughtered the Axis fleet ( Monday) Your change is a net gain of 13.5 units With other switches and changes A net gain of about 30 battle units in 2017. Allies need a victory. kas
I don't think it was quite a slaughter Kas. We were outnumbered 19 to 11, and still scored plenty of points. When we picked up 2 boats on Tuesday from the Allied side, it was still 17 to 13 Allied, and in the end the Axis won, but we did not know who was going to win till Friday so I think it was more enjoyable for everyone. At least I think the Axis did, scores have never been posted so who knows really. A slaughter was the allies the year before, by lunch time Monday you knew it was over.
Glad to help Kevin. I have had mine for 5 years now I think, and they are still running strong. I just got the cheap 2 amp $21 charger from batteryspace. The 6 amp version will get very hot, how Lee caught his hotel floor carpet on fire a few years back. I do have 4, 6 amp chargers I use pond side for rapid charging sitting on the ground. I use the 2 amp units in the hotel room, they only get a little warm to the touch.
That's right Dave And don't you forget it I will be glad to remind people of the facts when the time is right. Glad you will be there to back me up kas by the way it was a 3 QE switch
