What do you use for waterproof boxes?

Discussion in 'Electrical & Radio' started by JustinScott, Jan 30, 2007.

  1. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    The Alsace's waterproof box wasn't good enough. Besides the fact it didn't have a top, it would leak from the bottom. I actually waterprofed each and every component individually.


    I don't want to do this again with the Iowa. What are people using for watertight boxes? Or do you roll your own?
     
  2. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    Some guys use Tuppeware containers that are "stiff" or have a snap down lid. A lot of the guys use "OTTER BOXES". They seem to work well. A lot just build out of wood and use a clear lexan or plexiglass sealed cover.
     
  3. Kotori87

    Kotori87 Well-Known Member

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    I don't use a waterproof box. I use commercialy available waterproof electronics when possible, waterproof as much stuff as possible (I haven't used it myself, but I hear that three coats of 3M Skotchkote works wonders), and prepare servos to be flushed out with alcohol, WD-40, or Corrosion-X by drilling out the case so it can drain. I also use cheap standard servos, so I don't have to spend much to replace them when they wear out. I had a bad experience with a "water-tight" box with the throttle servo in the transport ship I first borrowed. Sure, it takes a bit longer to recover after a sink, but should a water-tight box fail it would take much longer to be ready to fight again. As things stand, all my ships can be ready again within 30 minutes of taking the plunge.
     
  4. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    I guess I should clarify, I will waterproof my servos. I already have a method that I trust. I do not want to waterproof my ESCs, Not because I'm worried about the water damage, but the heat.
     
  5. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    That depends on what I am waterproofing. If it is an ESC, I make up a custom box using the standard O-ring tables available from Parker and what I have learned from disassembling hermetic 38999 connectors. (main reason for this is that esc's in general and brushless especially seem to preferr the shortest leads possible) For everything else I use one of the following methods: electronics safe silicon RTV. Works great for receivers, just fill all the pin outs with 4" servo extensions (or appropriate) and pot the board in it.

    For larger boxes in larger ships I use an Otterbox with special cutouts for equipment. You can even tap holes in the side of the box for poppet valves if you seal them with rtv.
     
  6. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    For small ships, I encase the receiver in epoxy. For bigger ships, I use an otter box. For ESCs, you can use JB Weld to attach the ESC to a 3x5 piece of shet aluminum that you mount flush with the bottom of the hull (ie in contact with water) for cooling, then waterproof the rest of the esc with whatever. As long as the heat sink has a good heat ground, it should be okay.