3D printed hull that could be used in battles?

Yes, that area needs to be penetrable. Also, the subdeck (3/8" portion) doesn't step down until the casement deck moves in to the aft super-turret. There would just be a 1/8" stringer under the casement deck until the subdeck steps down. For the casements, the cupola is solid and 1/8" on either side, and any ribs, but most of the casement deck area will be penetrable. Any area in the casements that is inset more than 0.5" from the gunwale can be solid (maybe some of the area leading up to the first casement cupola

 

Okay thank you for the information - I'll have to cutout some of the material !

Something like this: ??

 

That's better, few additional things:

• The upper deck rim should be 3/8" thick (looks 1/8" in screen shot)
• The stringer (the original deck you had which extends to the bow, the deck the casements sit on) should either be removed for the first two windows, or can be no thicker than 1/8" (looks 3/8" in screen capture). This will be 1/8" from the start of the casements all the way aft until the casement deck juts in for the last time, at which point it will be 3/8"
• You can't add extra ribs above the stringer (looks like a few were added / not removed)
• The angled portion where the casement inset starts / intersects the rest of the hull should only be 1/8" thick on the diagonal (solid in screen shot)

I'll try to post some pictures of my boats with casements cut out. In general, there should be more open area than solid

 

Hi Kevin - I appreciate the guidance - I reviewed the IRWCC build instructions - and I think I get what you mean: The upper deck is the "weather deck" it can be 3/8" thick but what I have as a main deck (stringer) that's 3/8" thick... I can change all that around but since I plan on printing the hull a thickness of 1/8" (or just over 3mm) for a stringer is a bit on the thin side since I was planning to use some threaded metal inserts that are melted down into the plastic for mounting the platform that the casemates are sit on top of - so I did make some changes, and as a test - extended the thickness of a few of the ribs inward a bit to give that extra material for the inserts to sink into (blue ones in the picture). I think this would work...

 

yeah thick ribs would be fine. all of my ribs on my wood boats are at least 1/2" thick. still have tons of room. Plus, your internal armor would have better stand-off from the balsa sheeting