3d Printers and Printing Parts

Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by NickMyers, Feb 14, 2015.

  1. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Pardon my misinformed-self!
     
  2. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Well at least now you know. :)
     
  3. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    and knowing is half the battle
     
  4. jackpkt

    jackpkt Member

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  5. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    i was fishing for GiJoe, but that works too
     
  6. jackpkt

    jackpkt Member

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    Those voice over GI Joe PSAs were awesome
     
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  7. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    Porkchop Sandwiches!!!!
     
  8. stevenj

    stevenj New Member

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    Fusion360 is free for hobbyists. I am just drawing up my first hull.
     
  9. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    I've already received my lashings for being wrong! haha
     
  10. stevenj

    stevenj New Member

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    Let me know when you get to 100, then I'll call it quits. :laugh: It is only a yearly licence so its a bit of a worry for me that Autocad might come back and say cough up $300US a year :( Then I'd have to re-invest a huge amount of my time in learning something else or choke on the licence $s. Trying to draw up a ship's hull and in sections to fit on a 3d printer bed is no small investment in time, but once done replacements/repairs become very easy.
     
  11. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Given a Fusion a try yet?
     
  12. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    sectioning is rather simple. just model the whole thing solid then perform cuts where you need to so that you land halfway on a rib (found they print better that way) and if need be add a section over the top that is just a 2-5mm bar to bind everythign together for the print.
     
  13. stevenj

    stevenj New Member

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    Um, I am taking a different approach, I am modeling the hull shape itself. At the moment I am treating it as a learning exercise to learn how to do such complex curves. So yes I will start at the sectional info I have then add the hull plates. After that I'll split the hull into 170mm "high" sections (the biggest I can do right now, but printer no 2 will do 450~500mm high sections) with the view I can just bolt them together and replace sections as needed. That's the theory anyway, LOL.
     
  14. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    I've used it before. Been trying Onshape lately since that allows drawing on the iPad Pro.
     
  15. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Does money buy a "better" printer (maybe one that does not jamb as much?
    Should cost be the consideration?
     
  16. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    To a small degree money might buy parts/build quality. Money probably will buy better support.
    Jams are often dependent on parts, users, slicers and rarely if its well sourced, filament.

    I dont think ive actually jammed a hotend in the past year.
     
  17. stevenj

    stevenj New Member

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    It depends. I bought a chinese Wanhao D6 its <1/3rd the cost of a Ultimaker3 here in NZ ($1200NZD v $3800NZD). I had a lot of trouble with it due to awful QA but now it seems sorted it prints very well quite a workhorse for me.

    I dont know what the damage done to the models is like (I only watch the videos with envy right now it looks huge fun) but if say you get a turret blown off in the action and lost or other superstructure damage its a simple re-print job for an identical part(s).

    The biggest challenge is without doubt mastering a CAD/drawing package to make the most of the 3D printer / CNC.

    --edit-- the short answer is no. I could have 3 Wanhao D6s for the price of one ultimaker 3 and have money left over for considerable filament. Or do what I am doing using the D6 to make a bigger printer for less money than the D6 cost.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2017
  18. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    So to those who are actually printing (I have no idea who you are :)), what current brand are you recommending? There was also a thread on CAD, any recommendations (thinking I can reach out to the guys on this forum for limited help).
    Its a lot of money and even more time, so I am looking to make it enjoyable as possible.
    Lou
     
  19. pigeonfarmboy

    pigeonfarmboy Well-Known Member

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    This consideration also depends on what filament material you plan to use, and what expectations you have for quality. I print in nothing but ABS at home so my Afinia H800 is a perfect solution due to it already being enclosed to keep heat consistent. If I was buying right now, I'd have to strongly consider the Lulzbot Taz 6 as well. That thing can handle some really interesting materials.

    For some users, an SLA machine like Formlabs' Form 2 fits expectations better. It comes at a steeper cost but print quality is highly superior to your typical FDM machines.

    No matter what machine you choose, there will be a "teething" period getting it calibrated. While I have a nozzle that will automatically adjust it's height, I never use that feature because it's always wrong. Friends that have cheap machines have never been able to match the fine print quality of my machine. The way software prints support material/rafts/orientation has a fair amount of importance in this too.

    Just keep expectations reasonable. Most people that I see buy a machine and expect to be able to push the magic button and have the "easy-bake-oven" spit out a perfect part. Not ever the case. There is a fair amount of trial and error especially pushing boundaries of print limitations. (overhangs, fine details, etc.)
     
  20. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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