I would recommend you burst the first set if you have the ability to do so... the pressure required to burst will give you a decent indication of the suitable operating pressure.. and you will see the mode of failure. with no added safety factors, something like 1/4 the burst pressure times other knockdowns (I would suggest we are more like cast materials which have a best case additional multiplier of ~0.8 for the plastic I think) . so you would end up wanting a burst pressure of ~750psi although you could argue that down depending on how the part failed...
I don't think I have anything that can reach 750psi, or even close to it. I'll see what my big shop compressor can get to, but it's intended for use in an automotive shop to run air tools. It'll get better than 150 though. I would script a test regime starting at around 100 (enough to fire a cannon) and slowly ramp it up from there.
Don't use air, too dangerous. Use water. That way, when it fails you get a little spurt and it's over. Plus with water, you can use a small piston pump (Clippard cylinder maybe) and achieve the pressure you need easier.
yeah water is better, less likely to imitate a fragmentation grenade. On 3D printing the accumulator, right now yall are right, it is much easier/cheaper to build them out of the typical stuff like pipeing and what not, but Imagine in the not to distant future with 3D printing tech advancements we will one day be able to just print the whole cannon set up for all formats, accumulator and all at the push of a button.
That is sort of what I'm working on now. The cannon I'm working on will be for Big Gun. If it works, then it would be easy to convert it over for Fast Gun and 3D printing. So Tuggy, if and when I get my trial cannon...tried? then you may have some files coming your way. Plus appropriate compensation of course.
