Another Bismarck

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by tgalx3, Aug 20, 2022.

  1. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    I’m extremely excited about this build. It’s been about 10 years since I battled one and 12 since I built one. Got it floated and the ribs taped out tonight.
     

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  2. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    I keep forgetting to make progress posts. But here is the status of my Bismarck. I would say its about 50% complete. I have the radio and receiver coming on Monday. I should be able to float her again this month. Next step is to start working on the deck and possibly start printing out the super structure because that is going to take A LONG time.

    IMG_0004.JPG IMG_0005.JPG IMG_0006.JPG IMG_0007.JPG IMG_0008.JPG IMG_0009.JPG
     
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  3. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Nice progress!
     
  4. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    I see my rudder drive being put to good use!

    Good job so far. I'd be a little leery of the dogbone after the gearbox...with a hot brushless drive setup and a big chonker prop on a bismark, I'd imagine that plastic dogbone would become the new fancy 2 piece quick release style. You are so close to the shaft being perfectly lined up with that stub shaft out of the gearbox, you could probably adjust the gearbox (bust it free and then re-epoxy) and just use a rigid shaft coupler like this:

    View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QFNDP3H/ref=twister_B093VJ31LS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
     
  5. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    When the dog bone breaks, I'll move to that system. I had a dog bone in my first Bismarck and ran it for two year without any issues. I'll keep some some rigid shafts and universals joints on hand though. I am not confident in those motors but I already spent a pretty penny on them. My plan was to run them until they burn out and then get the proper motors and then move to your rigid shaft idea.

    Your rudder driver setup is wonderful. I have them in my Bismarck and Lutzow. I will say though that in both ships I have had to cut them down in height. But its a pretty trivial task.
     
  6. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Yeah I made them tall for that purpose, in basically every ship they need to be cut down.

    Looks good though
     
  7. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Can I make a recommendation? I'd get some 3.5mm bullet connectors for your brushless motors instead of a XT60 on each wire. Bullet connectors will just work better, be more compact, and you'll be more likely to get a spare that'll drop in from somebody if something goes wrong.
     
  8. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    that was my first choice. I’d prefer bullet connectors with that set up. I couldn’t find 10AWG to 12 AWG bullet connectors anywhere.
     
  9. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    These are the same size as an XT60 connector so if those are working now these will work as well. Plus they're on sale for CHEAP.

    View: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Bullet-Connector-Plated-Banana/dp/B077X78X5Z/ref=asc_df_B077X78X5Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=658810451952&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4466233800399184818&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025197&hvtargid=pla-2068203400938&psc=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwISlBhD6ARIsAESAmp4Wq9t3lNp9Aauq7pm1BeEoGB1iJezSaJCJcc0znIOM7miK6n8wdTkaAiRZEALw_wcB
     
  10. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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  11. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    Waterproof shrink wrap from harbor freight.
     
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  12. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    Update: Good news.

    The Bismarck's brain center came this morning. I got the rudder, drive motor and pump running.

    I am having an issue with the drive motor though. When I got from 100% forward to 100% reverse without stopping, the reverse doesn't work at all. When I put it to neutral and then reverse 100% reverse kicks in and works fine. I could sail around like this but in a battle I know I would be ramming everybody without instant reverse feedback. Anybody have any ideas?

    I have adjusted the end points and the sub-trim.
     
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  13. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    What ESC? It just needs programmed for instant reverse.
     
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  14. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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  15. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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  16. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    It looks like its called running mode. It says something about have to double click reverse to put it in reverse which is what I'm having. I'll have to read more about it and change it this evening.
     
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  17. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    You need to program it. It is the same family ESC that I use. It is currently set to F/B/R and you need to program it for F/R. Mine have a programming button but I think the 120’s require a program card. They are cheap though.
     
  18. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Well-Known Member

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    do you have a programming card you really like?
     
  19. notSoGnarly

    notSoGnarly Well-Known Member

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    I can't say I "like" it. But it beats the heck out of counting beeps.
    And it works consistently and it's cheap.
    HOBBYWING LED Program Card for Hobbywing ESC https://a.co/d/4neWRBw
     
  20. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Same kind of ESC's I use, same programming card I use. I think I have about 4 of them...where any 3 of them are when I need them is a mystery.
     
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