mcmasters needs to be on the resource list for rookies. I'm already asking myself how I lived without this site.
Before Nats (and before I finished mounting them. And, After Nats. In between the 2 U Joints is a tiny length of brass with a deep notch/flat and blue locktite.
Tubing: 89495K825 Bushing for 5mm shaft: 7119N116 What props are you looking at? I've run 3d printed, cast bronze, and soldered before. Cast bronze are probably the most durable and easiest to fasten to a shaft. I've got a set of carbon fiber nylon props I'm working on attaching to my Bart. Should be very durable if I can keep them on the shaft.
5Pack Vgoohobby Universal... View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q7TZKW7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I've used them a week so I can't speak to the longevity. But they seem fine after 10 combat sorties and 2 campaigns. My cruisers shaft and motor are 3.17mm. I had some 4mm brass already so I bought that size U joints to use that 4mm as the connecting shaft.
3/16 is smaller than 5mm so you could drill it out easy enough. I'm not usually a fan of metric but running gear is unfortunately much easier to find in non-murica units. Lol
Use a hammer to accelerate the shaft into the prop. That stuff can grab very quickly and once it grabs, the only way it will let go is with a torch.
Make sure both prop and shaft are clean. I like to sand the drive shaft lightly with 500grit sandpaper and then apply a light amount of 680 to the end of the shaft. Then twist the prop on to ensure coverage around the entire shaft. I find as long as you keep things moving it won't set but once it sits for more than a second you won't be able to move it anymore. Also, if it's a tight fit, chuck the shaft in a drill to spin it in. Hold the prop with pliers if need be.
Sounds good. It’s a nice smooth fit right now but is still very close to the shaft. im glad that I asked because my first thought was to treat it like E6000. Thinking I had 24 hours. Lol
All of my ships of the last few years have been various props set on various shafts with nothing but 680. Don't get overzealous trying to sand the shaft or anything to fit better in the prop...it's gotta be tight. Drop of 680 on the shaft. Do the twirl with the shaft to let it get all around. Put the prop flat on the bench. Get the tip of the shaft started in the prop hole and then tap it in with a hammer. On 5mm shaft it'll be almost impossible to bend the shaft so go hard with the hammer and you'll seat it in there no issue. If you want some plastic props to try/experiment your 680 methods on, let me know.
The epoxy is drying on the new stuffing tube. The prop is super close to the rudders. I’m setting the height of the shaft for a 2.5” prop with 1/16” clearance. got rid of the dog bone for a direct drive universal joint. wish I had done all of this a month ago. Lessons were learned.
Update: Prop Shaft 2.0 I moved the prop to about 1/4” away from the rudders. Installed a direct drive with a universal joint. I also made room for a 2.5” prop. Current prop is a 2”. Finally attached the prop to the shaft with green locktight. what a difference between the two iterations!! View: https://youtube.com/watch?v=KCi2GrrT7ik&feature=sharea
Update: Started printing the superstructure in ABS. I have an auto bed level kit coming today so hopefully I can get nice prints faster. Also have specific Kriegsmarine paint coming. Pretty excited to see what that will look like.
I am finally confident in the prop and rudder system. I am even more happy with the turning radius. I just need to finish printing the superstructure, install guns, armor, and balsa wood and she’s just about ready to go.
Looks nice. Whoever designed that superstructure did a pretty spiffing good job. I should probably put mine out there for download sometime, but then I'd have to get all my files organized and stuff. And I'm probably not really done either, there's always a few things that need fixing.
