Anyone Willing to Create 3D File for Superstructure?

Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by GeekSpeed, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. GeekSpeed

    GeekSpeed Active Member

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    Hey all 3D gurus.

    So I have an issue in that I am terrible at building super structures. I was able to fumble my way through the super for my FNS Foch, but anything more complex is pretty much beyond me. I see we have a few 3D files for supers on the site here and I was wondering if the guys that do those would be willing to do a few more on request or even (gasp) compensation.

    Anyone game?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Beaver

    Beaver #notatypist Admiral (Supporter)

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    What ship?
     
  3. GeekSpeed

    GeekSpeed Active Member

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    HIJMS Takao or HMS London.
     
  4. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Don't London as rebuilt and Takao both have a pretty large ss? I'd be a little concerned about topside weight doing full 3dp supers on ww2 era cruisers.
    London as built might work out if you had plans for it.
     
  5. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    Takao works in 3D if you keep it thin and replace and fill the inevitable holes. If I ever get caught up on my Akashi takao is on my list.
     
  6. dietzer

    dietzer Admiral (Supporter)

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    One thing I had thought of doing with the Takao SS is making a simple 3D printed frame for the SS that you then glue thin side pieces onto (1/32 - 1/16 aircraft ply or thin sheet ABS or lexan, perhaps). That would keep the weight down, but yield a strong SS, and the 3D frame helps get the complicated angles correct.
     
  7. Boatmeister

    Boatmeister Active Member

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    One of the new guys out here found a file for the superstructure of the Takeo. I know there was some cost involved but I could ask him where he found it if you are still interested.
     
  8. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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  9. GeekSpeed

    GeekSpeed Active Member

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    I actually grabbed the file from WoWS, but I am not good enough with Blender to get it sized and whatnot. I just don't have the time to commit to learning ANOTHER new software (I am in IT and I already have 3 software suites lined up already. lol).
     
  10. GeekSpeed

    GeekSpeed Active Member

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    If you don't mind, that would be awesome.
     
  11. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    I am starting to believe if you want to have a decent performing cruiser you should make all the SS out of plastic and just let holes get shot into it. End of the season you do a rebuild...
     
  12. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    vacuum formed plastic might be a really great option actually
     
  13. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Yeah, I am trying to talk Phil into a little side venture. Will do this on my Figi class, only downside (and small at that) is all vertical surfaces have to a 5 degree angle so they can be removed from the mold. Really for a cruiser you should not be taking a lot of topside damage, unless you are doing a one on one with another cruiser.
     
  14. GeekSpeed

    GeekSpeed Active Member

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    I have some pink foam I can use for London if need be. It is really light and if I just armor the sides on the bottom it should last for a while. Takao is too complex, though, for me to even attempt to build. Isn't there a way to print a hollow shape and not make it one solid piece?
     
  15. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    generally you don't print solid. its a waste. Usually have walls made up of what are called 'perimeters', tops and bottoms made up on a number of layers, and stuff in the middle - the 'infill'. I print most stuff with infill under 25% and thick walls.
    Going 2 perimeters, printed upside down, bottom layers only, no tops and no infill (so when turned right side up you have the walls of a given level and the deck of the next) would save you weight and still be kind of sort of durable (you'd have aprox 1mm thick walls if done with a 0.4mm hotend (most common)..

    Since you're doing a cruiser and weight is essential, id probably normally advocate sectioning the super level by level at a slight increase in weight in exchange for being able to replace sections that are damaged rather than the entire thing. Looking at the Takao though, I'm not sure that it would be a good fit for that approach.

    Do you have good plans? Because this is a pretty busy super. It has angles and overhangs, and curvy bits and stuff all over
    Takao_1939.jpg
     
  16. dietzer

    dietzer Admiral (Supporter)

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    I have excellent plans for Takao. I'll try to scan the SS and email it to you. However, I'm leaving town for a few days, so won't be able to do it until probably Monday.

    I'd love to be able to print an SS for my 1/96 Takao...
     
  17. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    in the next few weeks i might have time to get the Takao ss redone in blender and re scaled to be correct. the rips from World of Warships are detailed enough for 3d printing just need to clean off the bits that won't print and drop it into netfab to get my dimensions correct. if someone who has plans could post total height of SS in mm i should be able to scale it all rather simply and quickly.
     
  18. dietzer

    dietzer Admiral (Supporter)

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    BTW, are you looking for a Takao SS from before her refit or from after her refit? The basic shape is the same, but the details are different.
     
  19. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    I was messing around with this model a little bit. It is 13.62 units long. To get it to be 203.76 m (loa from wikipedia) or about 1.4 m in 1:144 scale, I multiplied it by 103.89. That makes it the correct size, scaled in mm, for slicing.

     
  20. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    does that include the main mast or to the top of the conning tower.


    edit just read that and derppp will be back later with a file