Seeing if I can take some the feedback here. Maybe I should photograph a APC MKIII spread out "dissected frog" style with some arrows. That would probably help heh? Maybe I'll start a production run then if there is enough demand. I'm getting faster at soldering them together. did the last two in under 15 minutes. Keep in mind, I'm not exactly an electronics guy either, just enough to read the diagrams and grab the soldering iron. >>Other than radio shack I wouldn’t know where to look around here for stuff like thatThere is a lot of the stuff on the ships that require stuff that isn't either isn't available locally at all, or not available in sufficient quantity. I'm ordering a batch of 30 or so relays tonight from Allelectronics to restock supplies that have dwindled over the last couple of years. In the interim, I could have gotten new equivalents for my old standard, but those were $3 a piece, and surplus when I got them they were 70-80 cents in bulk. But that's life on the electronics surplus market. When the right part becomes available, get a LOT of it cause it's cheaper to store it and not need it than to need it later and fork over the first born. I'm lucky to live around Dallas where there is stuff local, but even here there is a lot of stuff that I just can't get. Heck, I have to order the Ultra high intensity LED's from a wholesaler in Hong Kong (in bulk) cause they aren't available in the US at all, for any price.
Polyester caps have a nasty habit of exploding, too, if they get too much voltage put to them. Not that it should ever happen... For motor noise suppression, don't use anything that's polarized (i.e. with a '+' marked anywhere on it, different-colored strip on 1 side, or 1 lead longer than the other). The voltage that can cause noise can be in either direction, especially on motors that reverse. JM
the same picture would work if it was in plain english or some notes no need to cut up a frenchman [] but that may help as well
and maybe sell them with out the pump I’m game make them so you can just hook it to pump and go I could defiantly go for it[]
OK. I'll see what I can do for a picture or two of the circuit prior to final assembly with some comments across it. For stuff that *should* be at the local Radio Shack for suppression: These from the lead to the motor can: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062363&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=capacitors&kw=capacitors&parentPage=search then this one across the motor leads: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062365&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=capacitors&kw=capacitors&parentPage=search Here's an article for increasing the efficiency of the pump motor. It skims over the issue for how it relates to us, and has a link to the Team Novak site for the rest of it: https://ntxbg.org/KnowledgeBase/?category_id=45&menuaction=phpbrain.uikb.view_article&art_id=2 Lot of info in the NTXBG's knowledge base, and RCWarships.org's as well in the Naval War College's http://ntxbg.org/howto.php http://rcwarships.org
Whatever any given RS has in stock is spotty at best. I have managed to find suitable caps, though, when I needed them in a hurry. If not, I'll order online from a real electronic parts source, like Digikey, Mouser, etc. Here's what I look for: - 0.1 µF - 35V or more - non-polarized - avoid polyester Here's what radioshack.com shows as available: Catalog #: 272-135 0.1µF 50V Hi-Q Ceramic Disc Capacitor Pk/2, $1.49 Catalog #: 272-1069 0.1µF 50V 10% PC-Mount Capacitor, Pk/2, $1.49 I swear, I've also found 0.1 µF tantalum caps in stock locally, too, but the site doesn't list any. JM
While at IRCWCC NATS 08 I was fortunate enough to stumble across an auto pump that works the BALLS one of our members makes a whole set up just drop it in and adjust the float and whizzz slurp this thing pulls the walls of my ship in it pumps so well [].I had some wiring issues when I first put it in (my fault[V]) and it staled I had an 15degree list and was ready to do the Cruiser roll when she kicked on and I was up and battling in seconds I will never use any thing ells as long as I can get one of these I guess you can say I am a believer thanks Carl [] My home made auto switch couldn’t keep up with the demands of a Cruiser in a shark infested Pond the 2 great white Yamatos had a feeding frenzy we had smoke showing after the first sink (31 above 8 on 11 Below) [V] the Darlington 120 smoked
The simplist auto bilging ciurcit is realy simple, I have used it in many non bilge situtions, but it should work just fine, you hook one lead from the pump up to your battery, and you strip the end of the other wire and place it in the lowest point of your hull, you hook another piece of wire to the other contact of the battery and place it withina half inch of your other wire. When the water comes in it flows to the lowest point comletes the ciurcuit and whamo you got bilge. You just need to make shure, that you have the right voltage for your bilge pump, and if you want to get complicated, you can put multiple contacts throughout the ship, or solder pieces of tin to you contacts to increase surface area. You just need to keep it clear of corrosion, and build up. (note this can possibly be tripped by ball bearings shot into your ship by your apponents.) I don’t quite get the need for all the other extra components in the various diagrams on the web.
I built two bilge pump cirucits now. The first one I just got to smoke. The second one turns the pump on, but only when my sensor aren't touching.when I touch the two sensors together the pump shuts off. Has anyone else had this problem?. Also soes the ni-cd 7.2v 1700mah suppose to get warm when operating the pump? Better days Skip
http://rccombatnaval.free.fr/images/sujects/electro/sensoreau.jpg this one is simple and small, and cheap. Ive not even bothered putting it into a box.
I doubt I will ever have an auto turn on switch in my ships. I don't trust them as far as I can throw em. I've seen too many guys standing there praying for their pump to turn on and it doesnt kick on until the deck's awash. I'd rather forget to turn it on then have something fail.
I've always wished I had a "smart" pump controller. Something similar to an aircraft ESC, but with a built-in water sensor, as well. I'd plug it into a three-position switch on my radio. One position for manual "off", one for manual "on", and one for "automatic". That way, I could leave the pump on automatic for the most part, but if I see my ship settling and the pump isn''t pumping, I have the ability to manually activate it, re-prime it, etc. While I'm wishing, I'd also like a dial on this "smart" pump controller, to adjust the throttle on the pump. That way, clubs that limit the GPH instead of outlet size can easily adjust their pumps to within legal limits.
I have one of BC's original Switch designs. It is coupled with one of Carl C's original bilge pumps.. Works like Horse still, no smoke! I think I will try to make a few with these new parts and see what they do. The parts are cheap enough.
Would something like this work for an auto pump switch? http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-...ensor.aspx Thomas
Ok - thanks - how about simple float switches? Low and a high one to cut off the power when its obvious that she will sink...
The sloshing around would kill the effectiveness. I would do a mklV auto pump switch like in the NTXBG tech section.
