Sorry Tug, Again I will be making extensive use of these two VERY nice builds. Only photo's of my build from now on. Keith
Sorry, Keith, I was cranky this morning. I need to stay away from the keyboard until 10AM and 2 cups of coffee.
Nice video, Very helpful, I will plan to run the stringers straight at the front. You were making me nervous there until I read your note. I still do not have Barham drawings so I will have to wait to start cutting the hull. Rib placement for start and finish of the casement decks will be critical. Could you post a couple of pics of your casement deck? I am planning to use hardwood dowel for the Cupola’s, and had planned to cut it in half and glue to 1/8 ply or fiberglass. Your solution with the more perpendicular 1/8” Hard area looks like it might be more BB resistant than my idea. Looks like you have access to a router to remove 1/8” from a ¼” plywood sub deck. I am planning to stack two pieces of fiberglass sheet for the sub deck. I will cut the bottom/inside ¼” inside to allow BB’s to pass. Keith
I'll take pictures tonight. Your solution to stack layers to get that clearance is a better solution than me using a dremel disk to thin down the subdeck. Frankly, what I did works but not very clean looking. 5/8" dia dowel happens to be the correct size for the cupola. Like you, I sanded them down to just over half to get them to fit against the inner portion of the subdeck. The 1/8" vertical pieces are allowed by the rules and gives something for the sheeting to glue to. I went simple and set the sheeting up to be flat across instead of angling in in a scale manner. That lets the top of the sheeting glue to the 1/8" subdeck for added support and makes it very easy to resheet that window. Curving the stringers down to follow the bulge feature maintained the scale aspect but does complicate sheeting for those window sections. Tugboat and Brian ran theirs straight and it still looks good, not to mention easier to sheet. Heh. Sheeting was much easier than I thought it would be. As it turned out, sheeting the vertical faces first let me sand the proper angle into the top edge of the lower bulge sheeting so that the middle semi-horizontal section between the bulges went right on with a strip of balsa and the touch of sandpaper to blend it into the lower bulge. It sounds complicated, but turned out to be rather easy. Then again, Brian K was able to sheet his QE in one shot by just bending some high quality, super-flexible contest grade balsa over each bulge from bottom to subdeck. Heh.
I got my hands on some prints yesterday. Clark you are a Gentleman and a Scalar. Someday if we ever meet the cider is on me. Will be stopping by the print shop today & will get the cut lines layed out Keith
Been making slow progress. Kieth is in need of PDF for dummies coarse. I have learned how to change scale on drawings. I have learned that we (USA) have this weird paper standard, different than the rest of the world (including Poland). I have learned that small town print sops cannot handle large prints. I have learned that box store print shops (or box store employees) are not able to deal with A4. Finally I started laying out the hull for cutting. Keith
Makes me think I should dust off this large format printer that's stored away at work and get into plans re-scaling!
Here is the layout for required rib locations. Blue tape represents where the hull will be cut for casement decks. I also added tape on the near side to show where I will need to extend the weather deck for the Barham. This Hull came cut to the Q.E. configuration. I finished taping out the remainder of the ribs last night, but it was too dark for photos. Keith
Well, Ralph did worn me. This hull is very thick. I have been cutting with my dremel two days now, about an hour each day. I am still only 2/3 down one side. It will be worth it in the end…..
Yeah, it took forever when I did mine too. Very good, thick hull. I think I was blowing blue dust out of my nose for a week afterwards.
Majority of cutting is done. The blue dust phase is complete. I have started laying out the subdeck. I will be using fiberglass sheet for this. The red dust phase is about to begin.
I respect the amount of planning and pain that getting that right must've taken. I bought a sheet of fiberglass board for my Scharnie II build. Red dust, huzzah! Lou (aka VVAholic) talked me into it and it seems like a good idea in that it won't warp and it'll resist water longer than I can
Ralph's hulls certaintly give you a workout when cutting them out.I know I cut several of them out and went through a couple of dremel tools.
Well, that was……..interesting. I inherited my scroll saw a few years ago, and haven’t used it much. It came with a box full of blades. I thought I would try cutting the fiberglass with it. I knew that fiberglass was bad on blades, but WOW. 3” it quit cutting easy. 6” the blade was polished smooth. No teeth what so ever. Turns out the box of extra blades are 6” saw is 5”. I will be looking into some metal blades or abrasive blades. I am open to any other ideas for cutting this stuff.
Thanks Chase, That is the best choise for cutting the boat its self. I am now cutting flat 1/8" fiberglass sheet. I was hoping to find a better solution. Dremel is difficult to get close to the line requireing extenive cleanup & is dificult to get a perpendicular cut. Plan A : scroll saw. Fail Plan B: Abrasive blade in jig saw. I am not very optimistic. Plan C ??? Plan D Dremel cutoff wheel
