Use a flexible shaft extension for the dremel and you should not have problems getting close to the line or having it perpendicular.
Replied in the Frankenship thread. Lots of testing with blades to get the recommended T118B, they cut great and seem to last the longest. You want a tool that will allow inside cuts, so a band saw is out (unless you cut all the way through) and the metal band saw blades really don't work well. If you do get the rockwell tool, make sure to drill pilot holes in all corners so you can start and stop the cuts.
Found the poor man’s solution. I was looking for an abrasive blade for the scroll saw, but the hardware store didn’t carry them. They did have abrasive jig saw blades. For less than $3.00 I got one. They had two version. I got the course version. It cuts the fiberglass very nice. The thicker leading edge makes turning with the jig saw very easy, making the whole thing much more accurate than a normal jig saw blade. LOVE IT!!!
Cut it outside with a fan pushing the dust away from you, or use your shop vac to pull in the dust as you cut.
All of my fiberglass cutting is done outside with dust mask, safety glasses and long sleeves. With the hull cutting (blue dust) I was able to get away with no gloves, washing my hands after complete. With the deck (red dust) my hands would itch. Not sure if there is a difference in the glass, resin or most likely dust particle size. The hull was done with the dremel with a cut off wheel. The deck is with an abrasive blade with the jig saw. Gloves Fan…. Why didn’t I think of that :blush:
I've been using tape and clamps to hold the suction of my wet-dry vacc near the point of cutting, moving the hull as I cut. For the fiberglass board deck stuff, I'll have to think about it. gloves and a fan, maybe (plus mask, obviously )
Mostly finished with the decking. I will glue together the two subdeck rings then glue the subdeck in using West System epoxy. You can see where the casement deck goes I only get 1/8” for a deck rim. I cut back the subdeck ¼” to allow a BB to Pass. I am thinking that I should have left a cross support in the front. I may epoxy a piece in. I need to install the gear boxes and running gear first, so that I have an easier time working inside the boat.
Nice! Suggestion on cross brace: Don't install it. Instead put in threaded inserts in the sub-deck and use the main deck to hold it together. This way the hull is at the correct width when the deck is on, and when you have it off there is nothing blocking your access (seems like cross braces are always in the way. You could even do post (1/8 brass rod) and holes in the sub-deck to make the cross brace removable as another way to accomplish this task.
Hmmmmmmm I have a scew in deck on my Washington. I don’t like it. I liked your insert example and bought some. It would be easy to make a removable cross brace. I will put off the decision for now to see if I feel it is required. Later I can put it where I want, and either make it permanent or removable. I may remove the existing cross brase and install a removable one. Keith
Hide the screw in deck clutter, or make a removable object to hide it. I like using a bollard and having one of the two posts be the screw. painted it black, you would have to really look at it to see what it was...
Slow but steady progress…. I built the stuffing tubes and trimmed the props, so that the rudder can be located as close as possible. I have been working on the casement decks. I still need to fab some ribs to set the casement decks on. I decided that I needed to install the stuffing tubes and gear boxes before I started getting the casement decks and ribs in the way.
im in picture heaven, nice , where did you get the red itchy fiberglass if you mentioned it i missed it . i want some itchy fiberglass for my deck.
The itchy red fiberglass is the Electrical-Grade Fiberglass (GPO3) from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-f...ts/=uhofw1 I thought I was overspending until I priced 1/8 aircraft plywood. :blink:
Yeah proper aircraft ply is expensive. I think the last 1/8" sheet I bought was actually more than the thicker 1/4" sheet that went with it.
Fiberglass board, or "why I fell in love with itchy". Fiberglass deck epoxied to fiberglass hull: win win Already waterproofed! You can cut it like wood with the proper blades. Many different sizes, shapes. Easy ordering from mcmaster Chicks dig scars I got into the hobby to meet chicks It was a lonely first couple of years Comes in two colors, red or green (green is really too heavy unless you are making motor mounts like BC)
The chicks come in red or green? Green, please! Orion slave girls FTW!! I've begun Gneisenau with the same red board, and I like it, for the reasons Lou gives. Keith, you are definitely right, doing the shafts before crowding the inside even a little, is a great idea I draw circles on the bottom of the hull where the barbettes go, so I know where NOT to put my gearboxes (and I have the gearboxes on the stuffing tubes while the epoxy sets) so that I don't have trouble with gun fitment later. Of course, if you're shoehorning 3 guns in the stern, it's gonna be crowded no matter what
