I always thought the objective was to make the opponent get their toes wet, while staying dry ones self
A couple items on your pump that will help performance. I never put any heat shrink over the motor leads, too far a part to get a short. But I can see some solder on the connector. this is an easy spot to get a bb caught and have a short. Make sure your heat shrink covers everything. I close the priming hole in the screw with CA. I drill a new primer hole on the same side from the top corner of the top section of pump housing out to just past the motor. Air likes to go up, put the hole high as possible and end vapor lock. I seal the shoulder of the motor bushing at the pump housing and the seam of the two pump pieces with silicon. Water will leak out from each spot. Any water that leaks out is not getting pumped out. Every little bit helps. Just be careful not to get too much in there and lock up the impeller.
Mayhaps look to using a Titan 12 turn motor instead of the Stinger for a bit more pumping action. Amp draw will be around 30 amps on 6 volts (don't use a Titan on 12v) and will move 2.5 gpm with a stock 1/8" outlet. Top it off with a pair of LiFE cells for no-fade power through multiple sorties.
A Titan won’t be necessary for our local battles. We are lucky on most days to get 4 operational ships on the water. 6 on a good day. I do not foresee sinking due to combat damage. The Stinger may be overkill. If that doesn’t paint a target on my back I don’t know what will. A mysterious box has arrived on my front porch…… Suspicions are that it may contain a 4 pack of LiFe batteries.
Not to derail the thread but, I see a lot of ship builds with the driven pops facing inward to the center line. Hopefully I'm describing this correctly. The prop shafts aren't parallel to the length of the ship and I'm curious if there is a reason for this. Better turning? Specification building? Always see pictures of boats on the water without the prop shaft showing or the schematic without a picture from the bottom to show these angles of the prop shafts. Sorta lost here and wouldn't want to build my Baltimore counterproductive or illegally.
Toeing them in towards centerline directs the water to a converging point , in theory giving you more of the flow to move with the rudders. Ircwcc rules only require that rudders and props be in 'approximately scale' locations Hope that helps
Lack of a shop has slowed me down. Card table in living room had to be taken down to make room for Christmas tree. Darkness and rain has made working outside difficult. Casement decks have been more of a challenge than I had anticipated..... I will never be happy with the results. "stand off scale" I procured batteries so it is time to get the water channeling going.... Keith
When I build my Washington I started with a Swampworks hull with no skegs. I purpusly placed them at "aproximate scale" with um... some toe in. My Washington has always turned very good
Nothing wrong with Toe in. Works very well . I didn't toe mine in due to the skegs but the turning is still great. After all it's a NC.
Not a lot to take pictures of. I have been fighting with the casement deck. Close to calling it good enough. Placed order for Solenoids today 1/27. Tried to take shortcut by pulling the coil guns out of the old Adm. Scheer. I will not be able to get enough down angle with the coiled tubes inside the turret. Looks like I will be building all 4 guns. Rudder tubes fabricated, and are ready to install. Still debating on what I want for drive motors. I still have (8) 550 motors, so I am leaning toward old school. (looking for a convincing argument to go brushless) Batteries will be two 3.2V 20ah LiFePO4.
As you are asking, here is my .02. Go with brushed until you work out all the other new ship issues. Then pick a weekend and switch over to brushless to compare results. Only saying this as any new boat will have you re-working technology that you understand, why add a new dimension that could have you trouble shooting for a longer period. Anyways, build is looking good. Looking forward to how you cut the hull to incorporate the casements.
Thanks, You confirmed what I was thinking. There is no reason that I couldn't convert over at a later date. Keith
