So far my casements are bound to disappoint. I am not nearly the modeler that many on this site are. I will get some pictures posted, and look to get some pointers.
Most of the ships I see at battles including my own are hardly museum quality. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I'll be starting my Barham's casement deck next week. It's going to be a variation of how I did them on my VU.
I looked at that. I wasn't sure if including the 1/16" supports to get the zigzagy 45 deg jog outs would violate the casment deck height. Haven't figured out how to do it. For now I am just making them straight. That is where the scale part fall apart. Would make sheeting easier, and if anything would be my disadvantage, so no one should have any complaints.
Those casements were done before the current casement rules. I'll have to watch the max 1/2" vertical when building the new ones.
Looking good from here. Don't see any reason to be upset with how they're looking. drill some little holes in them for coffee stir straw guns and call it a day. It'll look good once the subdeck is in and everything is painted up.
Looks good! Piece of advice, make rib backers and use them to support the shelves. Then you can epoxy the deck to the top of the ribs, if you take it to the next level notch the rib tops to fit into the deck for additional strength.
IRCWCC Rules A. Construction Requirements 11. c. The total vertical hard area cannot exceed ½” between any two ribs in the penetrable area of the hull e.g., a ship with both a casemate deck and a defined armor bulge or belt may use two stringers provided that the weather deck is no more than ¼” so that the combined vertical hard area between the ribs is no more than ½”.
I will be doing that.... Well not the notches. I'd like to say that if I had a shop I would be patient enough to do that, but if I have to be honest.........
Dremel is your friend. Cut the ribs to the top of the deck, then notch it 1/4 inch. Use a paper template in place of the deck to transcribe the notches. This ship will see lots of side by side action, and if you do a NATS ships tend to get soggy and start showing signs of construction short cuts (ask me how I know this personally). The more you can tie the fiberglass board to the hull the better. A shop makes it easier, but I honestly cut all mine with the dremel and filled in with west system and fiberglass fibers. That makes for one tough joint.
If you have a need for the extra stringers (armour belt, knuckle, casemate's etc), yes, as per the rule @Maxspin posted above
After re-reading your post.... NO not all QE hull have the same requirements. The pre-retrofit versions have casement decks, but do not have bulges. The WWII QE & Valiant have bulges, but no casements. Warspite (I think) did away with the forward casement decks after the 1934-1937 reconstruction, but kept the rear casement deck. I wanted both bulges and casements (front and rear). Barham was the only version that I could find prints for in that configuration. Strike didn't have the Warspite at the time I was looking. I may have to order them just to look.
Lou, how do you know about soggy balsa showing wonky rib construction? Warspite retained some of the forward casemates after 1940 and some of the rear as well, but her bulge was not quite as noticeable as QE and Valiant. Barham had all the casemates and bulges. Malaya had all the casemates but the rear and all the bulges too. Oh, QE class, can't you all be the same!?
