actaually wanted it for decking in 1/8 inch does anyone have a part number for red itchy fiberglass in 1/8 inch
Jim, have you been checking out the builds? In two recent QE threads we talk about the fiberglass board... This is 1/4 inch thick, you want 1/8th
Jim, This new website is awesome, there is a search function located at the top right. By typing in fiberglass board, it returned over a dozen hits and each one is a click-able link taking you right to it. So in one of the searches I found this: Various sizes of fiberglass board: 8549K54 Electrical-grade Fiberglass (gp03), 1/8" Thick, 12" X 24" 8549K52 Electrical-grade Fiberglass (gp03), 1/16" Thick, 12" X 24" 8549K56 Electrical-grade Fiberglass (gp03), 1/4" Thick, 12" X 24" 8549K89 Electrical-grade Fiberglass (gp03), 1/32" Thick, 12" X 24"
thank you for the information i didnt think about the find it button and yes i know i saw the part number but i re read several threads with no success i have a question about this product i thought from reading posts on it it would be light compared to wood is it ? i want to make the deck for my cleveland possibly but its a weight sensitive project
i think i am reading too much its starting to blurr together i read everything new every day trying to learn
Build with wood on your first ship, fiberglass is going to add to cost of materials and tools needed to cut it.
i was talking about the deck the boats wood scratch built but if i use wood for the deck then i have to armor the vitals on top as well as the sides and that adds weight hence my question on the red fiberglass for the deck
oh cool i knew the deck thickness but thought it was too thin to take a bb hit thx for the knowledge plywood it is
More fun with the pink itchy... Been working on the ribs. I have to find time when I can work outdoors (no rain) have light, don't have list of honey do's.....
After building mine to fit the shape perfectly, I would not do that again in the bulge area. You *might* want to fill the bulge so water does not collect there, so on the ribs only worry about the gap 1/4 past the bottom of the window. When all the ribs are in place, put the ship on a 45 degree angle and use epoxy to seal between the ribs and hull. That will fill any gaps. Speaking of which, don't forget to rough up the inside of you hull now before you start attaching the ribs. If your budget allows, take a look at the epoxy putty to use for filling instead of balsa. HTH...
Actually, Malaya lost all the casements in the 1943 refit. And no, they cannot all be the same, otherwise, no one would try to collect them all
Finally had a couple of hours with some good weather to work with. I finished grinding out the ribs and did some prep work for the water channeling. I am planning on using pink insulation foam for the water channeling. First step is to get it to a workable size. I dragged the band saw out of the barn and cut (2) 4’ section off one at 3.5” and another at 2.5” Set the stop and cut off a chunk. A little insight into Keith's "shop" Reset the stop to 3/8” and slice it up.
