I agree. I didn't choose this boat for its ***-kicking stats, I chose it because of how much detail I can add. The WWCC gives out an award each battle for the "most detailed ship". Whoever wins that the most times in a year gets to keep the trophy. With at least a quarter of our active members seriously competing for that trophy, it's those little things that will make the difference for me. Of course, I hope it still is an ***-kicking battleship, but with only four 7/32" guns it'll be hard to get the respect I think it deserves.
It's a tough choice. The as-built appearance (1st photo) is really cool, but she was modified and repainted for the RJW. The 2nd photo is how she looked during Tsushima. It's not as interesting, but those are the colors she wore when it was time to kick butt and take names. Tough decision, tough decision.
I like the first one the best but thats me. This place has two model cruisers of that era that are russian look similar. Digitalnavy.com
Definitely the first. I love the way the masts are black (?) up to the fighting tops. However the light grey-green is the more historically significant.
I, to love the first picture. The multiple colors just scream out attention and detail. It's why I loved to model german armor. The multi colored scemes where attention getters. Kim
I carved the bow and stern on Saturday. will post pictures later, along with details. Meanwhile, it's time to fiberglass the bow, stern, and bottom. What weight of fiberglass should I use, and how many layers? The bottom is 1/64" ply with a 3/32" aircraft-ply plank defining the bottom edge of the penetrable, and the bow and stern are solid white oak and aircraft ply. I'd also like to fiberglass the casemates on my VU. Those were carved from basswood and dowel.
I've used 1 to 1.5 oz cloth to good effect for hulls. The cloth is thin enough to work around curves and sturdy enough for battling. To prevent overzealous guns from damanging the forward 2" of the bow, I add a second layer of cloth as a preventative measure.
