while browsing in my treasure chest of parts to use, and planning the placement of the rudders and how to drive them, I realized... My workshop changed a lot in the past few years... When I started the Bismark in december 2013, i was using a lousy old kitchen table... But since then, I started on working on cabinet, and more cabinet, and embeded tablesaw/router table... But still haven't worked on the paint on that wall! But I do have a nice long flat area to work on the boat! More soon...
Before setting the rudders in place, I need to locate the proper screw location. With that in mind, I set on completing the stuffing tube support rig. A little brass, some tap and dye, and some LOUSY welding. I really have to crank up my welding skill, those glob are simply ugly. Don't worry, I intend on abusing of the file to clean those up...
Quick update. Was installing strut and rudders, then saw that my glossing job was a bit sloppy on the hull. Now doing a new pass of sanding to smooth out the wrinkle while I do not have hardware in the way. Sanding to my taste just take way too long...
Status update Was not proud of the wave and ripple on the glassing of my hull, so I did a complete fairing job. I used Epoxy mixed with microbaloon to fill the larger valley, sanded, then two more coat of un-thickened epoxy (sanded between the layer). Now got a nice flat hull that is way closer to my taste. Added the Support for the stuffing tubes, rudder post and rudder Completed with the installation of the servo mount and linked to the rudders... For that ship, I was for a long time pondering between going with twin push-rod or going the timing belt way. Ended up purchasing enough part to do both. But at the end, the solution installed is the crossed over twin push-rod. fit nicely there. Downside, the internal rudder has a limited coursed when turning inside... guess I will test on the water soon to see the actual impact. Now tackling the motor, and got a bad surprise. Let's call that newbie error: I ordered and received an out-runner instead of what I was aiming for. No finger pointing, I know I'm the one who did that... but this is creating unplanned challenge on how to mount that motor, how to link it to the gear box and so on... Im now balancing between designing a proper mount for this, or just buying a new one that can be barrel mounted Below a test run and wild wire to see if at least it was working properly
you should check the mount pattern on the traxxas gearboxes, the larger (for us) outrunners fit it perfectly
Can I ask you for a model number, or a picture on how it is installed? I have browsed to see pictures of different gearbox, and it eludes me how I can install my motor on those. My issue is that the motor I have (Still not sure it is a bright choice...) does not have any mounting holes for screw on the forward face. All I have to work with are mounting holes on the back side. just stuck...
its not that you bought an outrunner, thats not the issue, just which one you bought, which is designed to mount the backside to a bulkhead on a plane. The good news is you should be able to, with some care, disassemble it, flip the shaft around and reassemble so the shaft will extend from the mounting face.
You sir are my hero! That was the idea I was looking for. Just went back to the workshop and: - There is not even a clip to fight against - Shaft is hold in place on both end by a collar - Set screw on both collar were easy to remove - Shaft itself was not that hard to move (relatively speaking) In fact, All I have left to do is grind some flat on both end so that the set screw have something to bite on. But that will be tomorrow, when I will be more awake and careful to prevent any metal chip from finding their way into the magnet Thanks!
https://rcwarshipcombat.com/attachments/img_20160322_000439-1-jpg.7368/ see the image above. not a great picture but shows two installed side by side. for one, just cut the aluminum plate in half
Completed the inversion of my motor. Indeed, it does a big difference. (May have messed a bit, it is now a bit faster in forward than reverse. Not sure it was that way before I tampered with it... does not bother me that much) And with the picture from Greg, I have a clear path ahead. Talk about a change of mood in a single day. Thanks all!
your esc probably doesnt give you 100% in reverse. Easy way to check, switch two of the connections between ESC and Motor. Will run the motor in the opposite direction.
I did that test yesterday too, and no, the speed stay the same. Will try to inverse at the remote and see the effect. Either way, working on the gear box now, and will do a speed test soon to clear that question.
I'm happy right now on how the evening went... Started with stock aluminium plate Cut it into piece, and superglued them together to prevent them from moving from this point on This allowed the piercing of 4 holes for the spacers, and the center holes for the bearing of the spur gear then, just a bit (ok, more than a bit...) of heat was sufficient to part them Quick test to verify the alignment. all good! Next, engine mount with increased tolerance to allow fine tuning Now, just need to purchase the proper spacer and screw for the motor. Look like I do not have the right in stock right now... Here just friction mounted: Tomorrow: shopping!
going to install him in your garage at some point? I understand Caleb model printers might prefer a heated environment.
