Work is slow this week... A) because I ran out of workspace. My lone, simple workbench was not able to accommodate the bolted scroll saw and a ship at the same time... B) because of A) above, decided to scrap my workspace. And build a new series of workbench along 2 walls... But.. C) my damn back jammed again. Try moving things around or working with your hand when you are straight as a stick, with the nasty bit pinching you... So, still made some progresss on the caprail and deck, but nothing worth a picture just yet...
Work on the deck mostly completed today! woot! Started as usual with some part cutting Which granted me some flimsy looking deck rim But those look so nice when set along the deck plates Tested the old saying: You canp> But in the end, the rsult was worth the delay! I also integrated in the deck a "Key" system to keep the deck plate aligned and secured in place. a piece of wood, same thickness as the deck plate or deck rim is glued in the center of the ship, at the boundary between 2 deck plates. Those key will be completely hidden by the SS when this one will be done! Next step: Filling the water channel
I like your Key design idea, very Pro. What do you have in mine for the deck holddowns? And again, that is goregous!
Awesome work! Inspirational. Do you have trouble breaking scroll saw blades? I seem to do that a lot. Not sure if they are too tight or too loose. Keep the pics coming.
I'm very jealous of your building skills. Everything is sooooo clean looking! Very nice, keep up the good work. Beaver
Same here. Too tight and feed too fast or ask the blade to make a radius it cant are how I snap them. Daniel, you have got one steady hand there on the scroll saw. Your build looks really good.
Wow....just Wow... from the pictures it looks to have the same precision as a laser cut hull. I am in awe.
Tumor, I am not set on how I will perform the hold down. My choices so far are, in that order 1: Use rare earth magnet. Issue: the deck section where I have to glue the magnet or metal palte is very thin. Not sure yet how I would fasten it. The deck in that area is 1/8 thick, with 1/4 subdeck. I imagine I can drill a hole and epoxy the magnet inside the subdeck, but remain the issue of attaching the corresponding metal plate to the deck. 2: If I can't figure the magnet, I am thinking of using a spring loaded pushrod. Something like this: www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp Issue, I have to work a way of attaching a string and make sure it is accessible somewhere fromthe top of the SS. And of course ensure that this string cannot get loose... 3: Assuming 1 and 2 does not work, my last option is to go with the time tested hand screw. But I would like to avoid those huge knob on the top of my deck!
Captkonig: No, I do not have issues with my blades breaking (Except a whole pack of 5 a few weeks ago. They all broke at the same place, all within 2 minutes of being put to use. I blame the manufacturer for those). I think that blades can break if they are too tight too lose, move too fast or move too much side way (Or of course plain old wear through) I learned how to not move too fast and control my side movement. Using a finger as a guide while using the other hand to push help this. Some people push with their two hands at once: I feel that this remove part of the control on the piece, and much prefer to use a single hand for the pushing motion. Reagarding the tightening of the blade, I use a simple trick: I try to attain the right "note". I use my nail to pinch the blade as a guitar string while "tuning" my saw! (No I can't tell yo uif its a C flat or any other, I am not THAT musically inclined), but still I know which sound I am looking for, and adjust the tension until I hear it clearly.
No reason you cant use the magnets. I have seen magnets the are only 1/8" thick. just have to drill a hole in the deck fit the magnet then epoxy over the top and sand it down a bit should work perfectly. I will look for the link where I saw then and if you havent found any yet Ill post it here.
Very nice work on the scroll saw. I wish I could do work that pretty. I like the thick and sturdy keel too. You can get RE magnets as thin as a 1/16". You could place a piece of metal or another magnet in the subdeck and epoxy it into a shallow hole (make sure the magnets line up first). While not battle tested, I used magnets 1/8 x1/16" on both sides of my Bayerns deck and it seems to work very well as long as you place enough of them. I drilled straight through the deck into the subdeck to line up the holes with a small forstner bit. Then remove the deck, place tape over the bottom side of the holes and place a magnet followed by epoxy. Then mark your magnets for the subdeck and epoxy them in. Once dry, sand or use a sharp chisel to clean up the excess epoxy.
You mention "As long you place enough of them". Assuming I use lined up pair of 1/8 + 1/16, how spaced apart the following pair should be? One set every 3 inches? further apart? I simply wonder because in calm water I do not see many issue, with the weight of the deck and SS holding the thing in place. But in rough water, at high speed, while turning on a dime, and receiving a full broadside
you probably dont need very many sets probably 4 per section of deck. your deck system should help hold it tight as well. if the water is rough enough to dislodge your deck and SS probably shouldnt be sailing in it haha
If you do end up still wanting to screw the deck down, try this method. I took some brass 6-32 threaded inserts and epoxyed them in my subdeck. Then, instead of hand thumb screws, try useing button head cap screws to bolt down the deck. Or better yet, Countersink the holes, and use Allen flathead cap screws. Those would be flush with the deck. All you would need is a T-handle allen wrench or socket for use in a battery impact. Pretty quick removal. Not as fast as a magnet setup of course. Also, The brass inserts i got were from mcmaster, screw in type. However they did not do well in plywood. so i ground off the threads and shortened them for weight saving. The epoxy holds them just fine.
Screwdown is okay for parts that you don't go in to very often. Don't do it over your battery and CO2 area.
