Quick question: I am planning later on to have the deck with a wooden plank appearance. Any idea how it should be done? I am thinking that if I need to cut or etch my wood, then it should be done before the varnish/epoxy coat. Or is it better not to cut/etch the plank edge, and just draw/paint them??? I am getting ready to seal the hull frame before moving ahead with the blocking, and wonder if I need to put details on the deck before doing so...
Mike Mangus did a great tutorial on it here. http://rcnavalcombat.com/Forum/tabid/58/aff/545/aft/407460/afv/topic/Default.aspx Beaver
You can do it that way or you can just draw it on. Ben L. with WWCC just took a pencil and ruler to his Rodney and it looks outstanding. "The key is taking your time and not rushing" his words not mine as I have not done this yet. One argument for just drawing them on instead of etching them using a saw is that if at any point during the process you are not happy with how they are looking you can just erase and redo it. Either way probably works perfectly fine. A third option I have seen some detail modelers do (non-combat guys) is to literally plank the decks using very very very thin planks you can find at railroad hobby stores. This way seems like it would take the most time and effort but if done right it looks amazing. (to amazing to get shot at in my opinion) Good luck and remember we love pictures
Greg had planked the decks of his Tirpitz.. .... Looked awesome. Justin had wound up with that ship at one point....I wonder if anyone knows of the whereabouts of that ship at this point?
ooo pretty!! Im gonna go ahead and say that is truly planked based on the area around A turret. For a second there I thought the ship was sitting on top of an ice bath with all his supplies floating haha
The Good: the FrSky Taranis I ordered this very Wednesday, just arrived! Keep drooling, that one is mine now! The Bad: during the overhauld of my shipyard this last week, I had to use my router. Once done, I tried to remove the guide from the router. Strike 1) I broke an iron screw inside the aluminium casing Strike 2) I also broke the second iron screw inside the aluminium casing, on the other side of the guide Strike 3) I broke my screw remover bit INTO screw 1, itself locked into the casing. Question: anyone tried to solve this before??? I solved the situation, but it took me a the whole weekend to patiently destroy those screw, the file and restore a round shape to the screw holes, and taping new filets. And with all of this, I still may need another day at the shop to complete the first phase of the overhaul, before jumping back on the ship. (good thing I am still waiting for hardware shipment...)
1) The casing on the Taranis is plastic, not aluminum. 2) Why were you using the router on your Taranis?!?! Just kidding I haven't had that happen on a router before, but in aluminum engine blocks? Sure. Helicoil insert!
Sadly, that was strike 3: I broke the helical insert inside the screw too. Wife is telling me I need to tune down my torque...
Wife is probably right at this point. Happily, Harbor Freight has a decent router for under $50 The screw pattern even matches the adapter plate for my Rockler Dovetail Jig
Past experience has taught me to throw any and all easy-outs (your screw remover) into the trash as soon as it passes my shop threshold!
Eurk! two weeks in a row on the road for work... Not much work can happen on the ship then. At least, I managed to grab a few hours to sand the thing down, and apply a coat of spar varnish on the ribs/keel. I just love the golden shine it apply to the wood! See ya in a week.
That's the thing with big boats... can't take them on the road and work in the hotel room. Have you considered doing a destroyer?
Interesting fact: While travelling away from home (currently in Houston, TX), I'm using the opportunity to do some shopping. 1) pelican case are about 1/3 the price of what I have at home. Bought some of them to put my electronics into. 2) predicate : 3M Scotchkote is not available close to where I live. On the other hand it is available here in Houston. SADLY It is forbidden for air travel. Ground only. Just means that despite I had a can in my hand, it was useless for me to by it. Look like I have to find an alternative to insulate my stuff. (read somewhere that liquid electric tape was a NO GO so I have to find out another solution ) Best regards from Houston this time. Daniel
FYI - ALL.. ALL .. of my pelican boxes failed at the factory seal... the holes I drilled never leaked. I did a lot of sinking my first few years and every time I hauled up my ship I had water in my pelican box. When I got home I filled it up with water and what do you know it leaked out of the factory gasket.. between the halves of the box... Fortunately I was able to dry out my electronics and they worked but it took 30min to 1hr to do so..
