Bismarck build

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Tanaaris, Nov 21, 2013.

  1. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Odd, I have yet to see a pelican seal in good condition leak in personal experience.
     
  2. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    I suppose it depends on the conditions. I sank with a lot of damage so the box was in the water for a while during heavy pumping. Then went down.. in water with copper sulfate.. (don't know if that affected it).. After 3 boxes that leaked.. I moved on.. now I don't have any issues at all.

    I suppose if you take light damage and rarely sink it may never be an issue but if you take 40+ bellows and 50+ above's in one battle.. it may be an issue.
     
  3. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    I use E6000 adhesive to coat my electronics.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    Daniel, I got my Scotchkote from Nedco (luckily they have a location right in my town, but they do ship). Check out https://quebec.nedco.ca/productInformation.action?productCode=MMMSCOTCHKOTE&token=%25280%2B4294967031%2529%253Cscotchkote%253E&custCode=
     
  5. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Which Pelican case? I use the 1020micros, which they dont rate for submergence, but I have happily allowed mine to sit at the bottom of the pond for a while until the battle completed on more than one occasion- I don't believe in making everyone else stop so I can fish my boat out.
    Honestly it shouldnt matter how often you sink. If the seal surfaces are cleaned and in good condition, and the latch applies proper compression, you should not be leaking. To avoid damage to the seal and foreign matter I make it a point to _not_ open my box at the pond unless needed.
    What box have you switched to that you found worked better?
     
  6. Hovey

    Hovey Admiral (Supporter)

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    Unless the bb's are hitting the box (a bad thing you should fix right away) the amount of damage you take at the surface should not matter. A proper box should not leak near the surface, and it still should not leak at 6 or more feet of depth. Either the rubber has been compromised somehow (misalignment, foreign object, cut, or dry rot) or your penetrations are leaking. I regularly place a piece of tissue at the bottom of my cases to make it easier to see if they have failed and they stay dry until I do something stupid. That said Scotchkote works great.
     
  7. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    I don't use boxes any longer. I just coat all my electronics with acrylic conformal coating along with MG Chemical Connector Coating, and occasionally use goop/E6000 for cushioning on the outside.

    The boxes I used were the smaller version boxes 1010 and had a problem with several boxes. They were new and the seals had been checked repeatedly. I spent so much time making those boxes... such wasted time.

    Now I can easily and more importantly quickly repair any wire issue.. or do a 1 minute receiver replacement.. etc.
     
  8. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    Just back from my trip, so I spent some time into the workshop this weekend.
    Started with the non-glamorous job of applying yet another coat of varnish.
    Then the blocking started! Nice to see that hull take shape
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The impenetrable section is not yet complete (Neither in length or height), but I will continue working on it.
    And on the evening, back to the 3D cad software to design the SS...
     
  9. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    are those notches in pic #6 for the end of impenetrable area?
     
  10. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    No.
    The water line is about 1 inch below those notch (When the ship is on the right side up).
    Those notch are there so that I can insert a stringer to support the armor belt
     
  11. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, not the notches on top but the, looks to be about 1/4" wide, ones next to the balsa.
     
  12. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    Oh, Those.
    sorry, was thinking you where talking about the stringer mount.

    No, what you see is a try. I intend to mount the bilge keel there. Those are slighly reccessed to provide side support for those keel. And they are well below penetrable area. My goal is to shape a piece of balsa in a triangular shape, then glue it in those notch. then later on, glass over them
     
  13. jstod

    jstod Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, I had thought that was a bit low for end of hard area haha. very cool
     
  14. SWORRIOR

    SWORRIOR Member

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    Very interesting idea. I'll keep watching for how it turns out and perhaps incorporate it into my projects. Keep going strong.
     
  15. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    2 Hours of sanding gave me these two small pieces of wood, that I temporarly taped to the prow...
    Question: do they feel right to you? Or is the underwater part still a little bit too wide?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  16. irnuke

    irnuke -->> C T D <<--

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  17. darkapollo

    darkapollo Well-Known Member

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    It looks like it really should not be much wider than the keel, maybe 1/8" on each side to round it.
     
  18. Tanaaris

    Tanaaris Active Member

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    you are right, the foreleg should be thiner!
    So this what I just done tonight, sanding it again. I think I just removed 1/4" more on each side.
     
  19. irnuke

    irnuke -->> C T D <<--

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    Had to chuckle...."Foreleg" is one of the front two legs of a four legged animal. "ForeFOOT" is the term for the underwater portion of the bow of a boat. :p
     
  20. AP

    AP Member

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    Is your keel 1/2" thick?