Black Bart: IRCWCC

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Beaver, Mar 30, 2022.

  1. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    The shaft was roughed up, coated in loctite 680 and then spun into the prop. It's part press fit, part glued. I'm confident in it staying.
     
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  2. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    Its the same method I've been using for all my props, regardless of material. Holds onto them pretty darn well.
     
  3. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Those aren't nylon. They're carbon fiber reinforced nylon!
     
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  4. Nomercy

    Nomercy Well-Known Member

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  5. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

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    I think it's about time I update this thread. A number of things were updated and refit since my last post.
    First of all, Loctite 680 DOES NOT hold nylon (carbon fiber reinforced nylon) props to stainless shafts. I broke them free by hand. I found an alternative in Loctite Plastic Bonder. I've been using it extensively in my current 3dp Pennsylvania build and it is a solid adhesive designed exactly for this purpose. I glued the props on using the plastic bonder and they held up great at the NJ regionals. After the battling was over I backed Bart into the shoreline and ground up some of the sticks for Kevin. Props didn't seem to care. I am very optimistic for the future of nylon printed props in this hobby.
    Some recent beauty shots. This was sea trials in prep for Kevin's battle. Finally added turret faces and dummy barrels.
    PXL_20240512_220319577.jpg

    On the water waiting for battle to be called. Also, Matt's Baden showing exactly where you don't want to be.
    PXL_20240519_142741926.jpg PXL_20240518_152258660.jpg

    Inflicted some nasty damage on @bsgkid117 Bart. I believe he sank.
    PXL_20240517_200829789.jpg

    Last time I ran Bart in Georgia I was seriously dissatisfied with my gun deck layout. The direct solenoid connections made working on the duals extremely difficult and required removing both guns to tear apart one. I tore everything off the deck, moved the solenoids off the guns, and remounted everything in a much more accessible manner. I had to fab an aluminum mounted bracket for the B turret solenoids to get them to clear the bottles. It's still a tight fit.
    PXL_20240504_163354813.jpg

    Last iteration had co2 hoses, power, and signal wires going to the gun deck. Had issues with wires coming unplugged or getting tangled. This iteration has just co2 hoses and power leads going to the solenoids. The gun boards are inside the boat now.
    PXL_20240510_200856755.jpg

    I upgraded the guns to high flow breach bypass. Mostly for the intimidation factor of big splashes.
    PXL_20240527_212414378.jpg

    Don't forget to leak test your guns. Learned this trick from @thegeek. Over tweak the cannon and place it in a bucket of water. Fire and watch for the bubbles. Seal those spots and test again until your cannon holds 150psi without leaking. This way your cannons fire with peak power and efficiency.
    PXL_20240527_203209283.jpg

    In preparation for nats I want to improve her deck seal some more. @bsgkid117's Bart really showcased the effectiveness of a good deck seal when I propwashed it for a solid 5mins and it shrugged it off like it didn't happen. Impressive.
    So, time to desheet and apply new skin for nats. Oh, and remove the crappy stringer that's falling out of the boat anyway.
    PXL_20240527_234034687.jpg

    Till next time...
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2024
  6. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    If you ever consider something other than Nylon, the props that @SnipeHunter sells on shapeways do great when cast in brass and hit with Loctite.