next project, bogue class escort carrier / c3 cargo ship to boost allied shipping. Will make the mold so it can be used for either ship. I’ll probably make one of each, the c3 will be a submarine tender. Progress over the past 2 days used a two part foam this time. Probably won’t use it again rough cut Balsa blocks for bow and stern Filled in some air pockets plug will need a bit more sanding in bow and stern, then full layer of spackle. This will be a quick and dirty mold, let’s see if I can get hulls out before the kongos
I have a C3 Hull, they are super useful for making some Jap ships too. I have plans for a weird amphibious assault ship that has 1/2 a flight deck and funky cranes.
Part of choosing the c3 hull was ability to make generic convoys that can flip. Finished sanding the bow, decided to paint the foam first. I put spackle on the first part or the bow but I’m thinking the paint will clog up some holes to limit the rate of spackle consumption. I plan to cover the rest of the plug tomorrow
Oh okay thanks that is cool. Wow you are really cranking out these plugs nice work. These? http://www.combinedfleet.com/Kinugasa Maru_t.htm http://www.combinedfleet.com/Kashiimaru_c. Wow this is a versatile hull
Pig covered in filler The two face look one thick layer is easier than a lot of thin / partial coverage layers once I sand this down she’ll need a bit more in a few low areas then a couple coats of paint. No intention to polish the cannon ball, hopefully making the mold this weekend
Ready for mold printed up motor mount with shaft alignment for mass production Pva drying, first half of mold tomorrow
Is there anything preventing the motor output from being aligned to the shaft? Might be able to just do a simple straight coupler vs a dogbone, would just have to adjust the motor mount portion upwards it looks.
Alignment isnt as bad as photo shows, this was the 3 minute ‘find the closest pieces that fit’ before the gf came over shot. I overcompensated on the shaft hole diameter so there is some slop making the inboard end of shaft seem higher than it will be. These boats are meant to use parts that are lying around, so it’s designed for dogbones as I (and most others) have a lot sitting around. I also don’t like clamping force perpendicular to the axis of alignment with a direct coupler. I find the two zip tie mounting as the easiest to swap motors out pondside. Finally, I add a coating over the motor mount to give it better friction, which moves it up slightly. I got the first half of the mold done today. went with only a few issues also worked on rudder mounts and gears. I set a 1/8” collar into the printed part by grinding grooves on the OD, heating it up with mini torch and pressing it in. Gear has hole for set screw in the print. 50% success rate so far Also printed gear for rudder servo to fit over the horn worked more or less, might tweak some clearance a bit. Will secure with 4 screws printed up a mount for an old convoy I have (USs Algol) Will need to iterate slightly based on deck height Gutted old convoy and drilled home for new shaft. It will be test bed for what goes in the other ships planning for mold part 2 tomorrow (no work)
I really like your printed gear that fits onto a servo horn - that always seems to be the most problematic connection...
Thanks. Second half of mold done Parting board put up a small fight Lightweight spackle and some paint to clean it up part 2 also printed a rudder It’s being glued together now Planning to split the mold tomorrow evening
Pulled the mold off Want to guess which side I used wax on? Cleaned up pretty easily No surface defects also made progress on rudder mount Dry fit will need to adjustments to length but this will be general idea, will probably step up diameter of support tube
I’ve had good luck with the traxxas waterproof servos. Many sinks with maybe one failure over the past 3 years. I will use the cheap hobbyking ‘waterproof’ servos for convoys
ahh I been using hitec waterproof no issues as of yet. But I’m always looking for reliable alternatives. Those hitec are about 40 a pice
And worth every penny. Only one servo in modern boats these days so why try the least expensive option?
