Just some miscellaneous build tips. I thought I'd put together some common errors / misconceptions I've seen..... 1) Water Channelling is not raising the floor of your boat so you have a nifty place to mount stuff. It's a channel to move water to the pump. Slope it from bottom of windows to the center channel so the water runs into the groove, then aft to the pump sump. Inset heavy items like batteries so that they are low in the hull as possible while still allowing water to get under them to the channel. 2) Concrete filler may be a quick and easy way to add ballast, but it's very hard to get back out if you want to change anything deadweight that could be better used for batteries, bling, or just about anything NOT deadweight 3) When picking what boat to build, here's some things to consider: How well does it suit your battle style (slugger vs run & gun, etc) Plans available (for scratchbuild) or kit / hull available (for purchasing)? What rules set / scale is common in my area (build to the local rules!) How easy will it be to transport? (Frail 80-year old with a Yugo shouldn't build a 54lb Yamato) 4) Most important thing about a combat ship isn't how many guns, or even how maneuverable it is....it's how reliable it is. A 7-gun ship that fires off 3 salvos and sinks b/c the pump didn't work is much less useful than a 2-gun cruiser that empties his guns into the enemy. Not to mention the sink points... (Note: I've been guilty of not having a reliable boat. Budget & scheduling problems. I'm working on improving my track record!) More later....
More... New guys: Yes, a sub / torpedo-armed PT-boat / shore battery / whatever would be neat. But there are several reasons why they are either not built, against the rules, or just very uncommon. Solicit and listen to advice of experienced battlers in your chosen rule-set (Example: I try not to give advice to big gun, b/c I have never played it.) I see a lot of advice threads / overhear conversations by people who have never battled a boat, giving advice to other new guys. Beware! If someone is telling you how to build / what to build / how to battle, etc... ask them how long they've been battling and in what formats, how many boats have they had on the water, etc. Following for Fast Gun only: For your 1st boat, build either a large cruiser, battlecruiser, or small battleship. Good starter boats include: Prinz Eugen (cruiser), Invincible (BC), and Andrea Doria (BB). Reasons: Not so small as to be a tough build, not so large as to be expensive / complex. Commonly available parts / kits / plans. This list is far from exhaustive, there's lots of other good starters out there. Just stick w/ these general sizes for your first boat & you'll enjoy & grow with the hobby.
Previous post made it sound like people were deliberately giving out bad info....to clarify: Some people who have not yet fielded a combat ship are so eager to help that they offer advice to other new guys. Some of that advice is good, some is passed-down wisdom, and some is erroneous. How's a new guy to know the difference? As stated above, ask their experience. Fiberglass: cutting fiberglass hulls generates lots of tiny fibers. These are very "itchy" (not to mention REALLY bad news to breathe). Wear a filter mask & two sets of rubber gloves, with long sleeves. Cold shower / rinse after done to get fibers off skin w/out opening pores.
Thanks much for the info, especially about the safety measures for fiberglass hull cutting, which I am anticipating starting in the next 2 weeks, work permitting. I always use eye protection, hadn't thought about the fiberglass dust as far as a mask. Havent done any 'body work' since I repaired my mom's Mustang back in the 90's. Grazzi! and safety first!
I'd like to add some additional safety tips around fabrication. While I agree 100% with the fiberglass precautions described above, the truth is that any sort of fine dust generated by cutting or sanding, whether plastic, fiberglass, carbon fiber or wood - especially plywood, melamine, MDF or other forms of man-made materials - is extremely dangerous. These particles become embedded into the tissues of your lungs, and reduce your lung capacity. Many of these materials do not break down over time, nor are they excreted or otherwise expelled by coughing. In addition, the various toxins in the solvents and adhesives used to bind these products together can do irreparable harm to your brain, heart, liver, spleen, kidneys and lungs, and the worst part of it is that there are often no early warning signs, i.e., you don't cough uncontrollably when first inhaling these particles. The coughing often manifests over time - years, in some cases - and by then it's too late. When you get old, and need all of the lung capacity you can get, you will look back and wonder just what was so damned important about getting that toy boat finished that you ignored your personal safety. Always use an OSHA-rated respirator and eye protection when generating any sort of dust or fine particles, regardless of the material involved, and use a vacuum system to remove particles from the environment when generating such particles. Rob
Also after you finish cutting out those windows on the 1/4" thick hull.... do not, I repeat, DO NOT take a Warm or Hot bath.... it opens the pores and lets the glass set right in at home.... take a cold shower to wash off with... helps alot.
