I was wondering which brand of paint you guys are using. And are you using Acrylic or Enamel (Water or Oil) based paints.
I use the cheapest rattle can I can find... or colored dope.. but whatever you get, put it on thin. It doesn't take too much paint to make a hull far too hard
I just use colored dope. The big reason is I don't have to go through as much trouble masking the hull, finding a wife approved location, and then waiting for paint to dry as with spray paint. Dope dries pretty darned quick and you can finish the whole hull while the guy spray painting is still working away. It also has an interesting tendency to seal small unnoticeable cracks. Didn't realize that til recently when after a new coat of dope on the underside, I didn't have any leaks, where I did before. The other side benefit which is most useful in combat, is I can patch the hull between sorties, and you can't tell where provided I use colored dope again on the silkspan patches. No need giving the enemy a blatant clue where to hit again heh? cheers Jeff
I agree with Jeff, one paint all around. Easier as well because I don't have to color match; its all the same! I also don't mix my dope to change the hue; mostly for the same reason. I don't want to spend what few boat hours I have mixing paints.
Hey guys my local shop has quit careing the colored and even the regular because no one has bougth any for planes any more!
The quantity of dope has definitely been reduced in my local shop. Used to be one long aisle and several shelves, and now is a part of a shelf. But Fokker Red and the Grey are pretty classic and those are still there. I will say they were trying to talk me out of using "old school" dope, until they remembered who I was and what I do with it.
My local hobby guy doesn’t carry it much either however he will order it for me but I just found out if you use crylon primer it is cheaper and easier and doesn’t chunk with a hit fits my bill good and cheap
Define "easier" I had to go through a lot of trouble to get things masked off, find a suitable section of yard to paint in where the grass can stand a little paint and the wind is blocked so the paint will make it onto the hull, all while enduring 104 degree heat. I accept it's a matter of personal preference and even perception of easy, but for dope, I just draw the waterline on the hull, and mostly just slosh dope onto the hull (being more careful around the waterline mark) without any masking while in the air conditioned shop. Any slight overlap is covered by boot tape.
Yeah, my local hobby shop doesn't carry dope... a few years ago Hobby Lobby at least had the clear stuff, but I didn't see it last time I was there...
easier as in you dont have the stink of dope the brush clean up i laid a piece of aper down on the table used a sheet of paper as a mask and small short burst from sray to reduce over spray and was done in like 2 min no mess no fuss and no brittle wood [^]
When I spray, I use a card to mask off, when I touch up, I spray a circle on a piece of cardboard and use a small brush. It's not a big mess and cleans up easy.
crylon primer for dope ? so you stand by it. ill give it a try but thay have been shooting shi# for a long time um new here and i know you are too but if it works what the hell ill give a try
I learned it from guys who have ben shooting shi# since the 80's does that count . the dope is used in the begeining to put on the silk span this is just the color []
I actually use Tamiya model spray paints, just so I can get the right colours. (Rodney's camo looks weird in the wrong colours)! Spray some into the lid for touchups with a soft brush. Makes patching easy too, dope dissolves it, so the patch is coloured by the melted paint. That, and I tear the silkspan for my patches, gives them a feathered edge that blends in better.
