Overall Notes: If you have a question, please ask in the thread, and I will clarify the instructions accordingly. this way everyone gets the clarification & instruction improvements real time. Dry fit EVERYTHING first. Make sure you know which side of the holes the brass threaded inserts belong on. They must be installed prior to assembling the hull. check fits, if it seems too tight, sand it slightly until it is not. Tolerances on wood thickness are not very good, so to avoid slots being so loose that they don't work, some slots may be too tight. just sand either the slot or the mating part slightly till the fit is snug but not breaking the parts. General rule of thumb, if it makes it so you can't get the dry fit apart, it is too tight. Insert installation Check the fit, if the hole is too tight, sand it out a bit until it is not. inserts should press in up to the brass shoulder, and will not seat flush. inserts must be on the BOTTOM of the parts they are installed in, or whatever you screw into them will stand ~~0.020 inches taller than it should. Use any kind of wax and spare 6-32 screws to keep epoxy out of the inserts. I have used both mold release wax and chapstick, both work just fine. just leave the screw in the insert until after you are done waterproofing and sand any epoxy at mating interfaces flat once cured. These screws also let you make sure the insert is straight. pay attention to this, particularly for the superstructure tiedown screws. A test part has been provided for practice, it is rectangular and has a number of holes in it, practice here FIRST before installing inserts Should an insert crack the surrounding wood, don't worry, that sometimes happens. the epoxy used to waterproof the wood will ensure it is structurally sound. there are no inserts in regions where a crack matters. The Alternate NICK method Easiest way (i've found) to install these is to thread a bolt through them, put them to the installation piece, drop a washer and a nut on the other end and tighten it down. once the washer and nut get down to the wood it'll start pulling the insert in, nice and easy. Applying a slight countersink to the bore prior to installation will aid in alignment as well. spares have been provided for the motor mount as that part is a bit fragile until installed properly Waterproofing & interfaces Epoxy coat all surfaces but do not overdo it. Ensure that all locations for casemate parts, sponsons, deck-subdeck interfaces, etc. do not have blobs of epoxy that cure and prevent the components from fitting. it is easier to take your time and do it right in several coats than to have to sand off blobs of cured epoxy because too much was applied. I generally use a Q tip or zip tie end to get the filled out of internal corners that are critical Sand the bottom edges of all removable deck sections until they have at least a 0.040 inch chamfer. this clears the epoxy fillet that will always form when waterproofing. Break all sharp edges - sharp edges, particularly those exposed to direct BB fire do not end up with much waterproofing nor resistance to impact. even a 0.005 chamfer on the sharp edges makes a significant improvement in how well the epoxy waterproofs the parts motor Mount A new style traxxas gearbox mounts straight in the hull to a 5/16 stuffing tube (or nearest metric equivalent). Hull will be thin (very) where gearbox is. when glassing the bottom of the hull, wrap gearbox in packing tape, lube screws with release wax/chapstick,bolt gearbox in place, and then glass bottom of hull right on top of gearbox. I usually add ~0.030 of padding (double sided foam tape) to the sides of the gearbox (underneath the packing tape) to make sure that there is room to get the gearbox out if it has any draft in the wrong direction. Epoxy does not stick to the packing tape, so if done correctly, the bottom of the hull after glassing/fill ends up having a perfect mounting surface for the gearbox. where the gearbox is specifically, I suggest at a minimum 2-3 layers of 2-3oz glass cloth. Numbering Scheme & etching Ribs are numbered 1-14 in order from bow to stern. Not all numbers are upright Markings for ribs 6 and 9 look very similar but are NOT interchangeable. if nothing fits, check these two ribs first to see if they are mixed up. Etched lines have a very specific meaning. if they are oriented correctly, sanding between the etch and the appropriate edge of the part will result in the correct shape on the part, and can be done prior to assembly, after dry fit component 15 violates this rule, and should be sanded between etch and HALFWAY through the thickness at >45 degrees. the remaining un-sanded half is the stringer at the bottom of the penetrable area. Etching is provided in particularly difficult areas to aid in creating the hull shape. do not sand all the way away as some areas require more curvature than just a flat sand. Note where the etching is in the dry fit and you will then know how much to sand on each part before final assembly. Trimming and processing of 3d printed parts do not use a torch to deburr parts / remove flash. it may burn back into the part or light it on fire.