CA136 Chicago build

Onto the ESC's. They are Turnigy 25amp car. Useing the card thing, Ill disable the reverse for the pump, and have instant on reverse for the drive motors.
Im not sure on how to mount them yet. I have two ideas so far. In both, im going to disassemble them, coat them and the cases in epoxy, reassemble them, and let them dry. Also i will have a Brass sheet epoxied onto the bottem with holes for bolts.

Idea 1) Aluminum Channel in the water channel, Drill and tap, place the ESC's all in a row and then cut and swiss cheese the channel.


Idea 2) 1/8" Aluminum flatstock over the top of the water channel. Placing the 3 ESC's side by side and bolting them down. And milling the aluminum down to lessen weight.
In the picture, the flatstock isnt cut to size, so it looks high up. Also i will put the RX a few ribs away with the same design.


Im leaning towards 2.
Question, is a single 7.2V 5000mah NIMH good enough for this setup? It would fit nice and low in the water channel. If i were to go lipo, it would have to sit on its side and stick up. And unforenately i made the water channel to narrow for those pretty blue life cells.

 

Probably you'd be fine, just make sure you have a couple extra depending on how much you plan on battling. Lipo batteries are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Have you checked out hobbyking.com?

 

Very very nice setup. Impressive.

 

Thank you!
I have been looking at Hobbyking lipo's. I was checking out the popular 8000mah zippy 7.4V. I could take one of these and stand it up vertical in the water channel. I can't fit two length wise, and next too each other would block the Water channel.
^Is the extra 2AH over the 5AH NIMH worth it? The NIMH would be lower in the boat. And i would be changing out batteries each time i brought it in for reload.
OR, is it a better idea to go "all out" and get a pair of 13000mah zippy bricks and wire them parallel for 26ah? This would fit after removing some water channel, a few ribs and then laying the batteries down next to the water channel. Or would this weaken the hull?

Sorry for the questions, my battery experiance has been with airsoft, which only requires 1500-3000mah for a day.

 

the 8AH 7.4v pack I have goes right over top of the water channel in my cruiser. Would it fit in your ship laid flat over the water channel?

 

The 5000 mAh pack should be enough, assuming your pump isn't an amp hog. I have 10,000 mAh Life batteries in my cruiser and I can generally get 8 sorties per charge, using between 5000 and 7500 mAh total. I battle Treaty, so you probably don't want to charge once a weekend like I do, but if you top it off after every couple of sorties you should not have a problem.

 

Yes, that battery would sit flat ontop of the wc. However, if i was to have a single battery, i would use the nimh stick. It can rest on the bottem of the wc=lower weight in the hull. Then swap the battery every other sortie.
If it were TWO lipo batteries, and put them on the side of the wc like Tug has his, it would be worth it, have a day worth of power. Ill have to fiqure out how i would want them to sit.

But before i do that, i want to get the pump up and working to test how much current it is pulling. I am alil bit stumbed. How do i go about getting a brushless pump to operate?
I am using a FLYSKY FS-TH9X receiver/transmitter. I have the drive motors up and running, but i do not know which channel i should use for the pump. I would perfer it to be on one of these many switchs.

I do not have that much experiance with heli/plane TX/RX. This looks alot more complicated then my RC car or hovercraft TX's

 

I generally put the pump on channel 5 - the gear channel. It will have a on-off switch at the top of the transmitter.
You may have problems with that ESC. I think that it looks for a middle of the range signal to arm, even if you have reverse locked out. If that is true, it will never arm if you hook it up to channel 5, because it will only see low or high signals. My preference would be to change to a one-way airplane speed control. It will be simpler to set up and they are generally cheaper. Plus that way you would have a spare drive motor ESC.

 

I did try hooking it up to the channel 5 slot like you said. No avail.

My next hobbyking purchase, ill grab a few 30A Turnigy ESC's for a plane. Is that all i will need to run the pump off the landing gear switch?

 

Good news! Long story short, turned "on" channel 5 on the TX, and now the pump works with the current ESC.
Pulls around 8amps. Once i get the RX/ ESC potted ill try getting a GPM reading.

Next order of business, CANNONS.

I have already accuired some used BC cannons, and some team delta switch things.
and I really like the Idea of useing the Solenoid system. I have a few questions.

Are the Kip solenoids, and the team delta switchs all i need?
Then do i just plug the 3 switchs into one of the RX channels with a 3to1 connector for triple fire?
Last, any suggestions on where to mount these inside this narrow cruiser?

 

That ship is too big for 1.25 props, you need 1.5. 4 blade. 25 pitch. Tyler

 

Thanks! However, I went with the smaller props so that i could get the prop shafts level. This will help the ship reverse without pullin the stern down. It is tradeoff from having the larger props. Also, i upgraded to more powerfull brushless motors. I can achieve the same thrust (hopefully) as the larger 1.5" props, by simply raising the RPM to compensate

 

Been busy for awhile, got alittle work done today. Im trying out making "modules" for each place in the ship. ESC's, potted with a strip of ABS underneath, Bolts down to a swiss cheesed aluminum plate. It is very easy to swap these in and out for replacement.

Solenoid's. Using a 1/8" Aluminum angle, mounted the kips via flathead bolts to have the Outlet up top. Drilled/tapped the Inlet to the bottem of solenoid. Made my own aluminum manifold for the accumulators. Its a little rough as I did not have a drill press or mill handy at the time. Going to build the accumulators from Mcspuds thread.


Staged, still need to solder the accumulators, add all the gaskets and shorten one of the accumulators.


Here it is in the ship. Notice I hacked Marks rudder servo mount in favor of geared setup. The servo is centered in the ship, the gear is offset. Seems to work fine. I will prolly make a new mount plate later.

 

^ Not sure why its doing that. I can not seem to fix it

 

You need to wrap the links in

 

The toolbox menu seems to be missing for when I create a post. Had to cut and paste picture link info from a another post. Is there a option somewhere in order to turn the toolbox back on? Just checked on my phone, and the toolbox is there. But not on my laptop. Anyone have a similar problem?

 

I was having posting and logging in issues last night. I chalked it up to a forum hic-up.