Looks amazing. I can hardly wait to get my hands on two of these guys. Should be a much better fit for my battling style than Big Scharnie...
Not strictly the kit, but I have been playing with regular PLA and polymax PLA. The polymax suffers no apparent layer adhesion failures, just a dimple and done. regular PLA fractures like crazy. same cannon, same print settings, comparison pictures below: Polymax in blue
Xantar mentioned to me that PLA can be "tempered" with a heat treating process that fuzes the layers together with moderate heat? Could this methode cure the issues with these prints?
This place has lots of different types of 3D materials. http://www.3dxtech.com/carbonx-carbon-fiber-filament/
I did not temper either of them. that would improve both but I have some tempered ones and the green regular PLA is still brittle. I was very impressed with the blue (polymax) it takes a hit as good or better than the ABS prints I have from some folk. It is a bit expensive at ~40$ shipped / 0.75kg but the difference in performance is spectacular. I have taken the fillament, and bent it. the green snaps, the blue will bend 180 and not break. I am interested in it partly because I have a PLA only printer right now, so I am seeing what I can get out of it. so far, so good.
You can anneal PLA, yes. Basically you're driving up the temp past the glass transition point and holding it there for some period of time. This allows the internal structure of the plastic to realign itself and a host of other stuff that make me glad I'm not a material science engineer. Some PLA formulations respond better than others. One of the significant benefits that some PLA formulations can achieve with this though is an increase in heat deflection temperature. This is important to us because out of the box PLA's glass temperature is around 55-60C, which puts it in danger of deformation on a hot day in your car. Up here in the PNW I could probably get away with PLA parts all over my ship, but the guys in the south probably could not. It also will usually increase the plastics ability to resist damage from impacts, sheering, etc. How much seems to vary by the particular PLA formulation, the temperature and duration of the annealing process. Sounds great? It kind of is. But it also has a giant caveat: You're reheating your print to the point where it can easily be deformed, potentially under the gentle force of gravity, and then you will be cooling it. So essentially if you were on-spec before annealing, you may be off significantly after. Bridges might droop, verticals might slump or tilt, internal passages might collapse, flats might curl, etc, and you will almost assuredly incur shrinkage. tldr; Yes you can anneal prints, and its probably something that would work well to increase the usability of PLA for us, but parts that need to be on spec may prove problematic.
What kind of print settings did you use for these? I've found that increasing the hot end temp and using thicker layers makes PLA parts *MUCH* better at resisting BBs. I'm going to have to try that PolyMax filament too : )
A note if you're following this thread but not the For-Sale thread, today is last-call to get your name on the order sheet as we are placing the order tomorrow morning. If you really badly want one but need to wait a bit for fiscal reasons, please contact me. I have some *very* limited ability to pick up a few extra kits.
Do you have a higher resolution version of this image? I can't find decent plans to scratch-build my SMS Schleswig-Holstein and this is the best I found until now.
Believe its a composite scan of pages from this book: http://www.das-geschichtsbuch.de/pr...nienschiffe-der-Brandenburg-bis-Dtl--Kl-.html
I temporarily absconded with one of the prototypes and have been working out what is needed for stuffing tubes, props, guns, reg, and tank. I have the traxxas hear drive and can cut apart the motor mount plate as needed. Please contact me for more information. Stephen Morgret Strike Models
