Cad to Kit: SMS Deutschland Class

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by GregMcFadden, Oct 23, 2015.

  1. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    Just bug stephen for the provence kit...

    and now back to "annoying features of predreads...." I have not yet carved out / added the casement guns yet but due to armor belt/hull shape, the red lines are 1/8" stringers, the blue are 1/4" deck and the yellow is 3/8" deck. In keeping with my standard method, 3/8 will be made by laminating 1/4 and 1/8 ply together. I was not certain that I believed the bow armor bulge in the plans until I finally saw a picture of the schlesien clearly showing the bulge. it will be created by overlapping balsa in this region. the top half will be applied first and then trimmed to fit the 1/8" stringer. the bottom section is then applied. this stringer sits about 3/8" above the waterline in the bow region and goes back to just in front of the first turret. The two bow casements will also add a lot of bow hard area. stringers.JPG
     
  2. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    I've asked about it a couple times, but I think he just sends my emails to his spam folder. No big deal... gives me time to work on other wanting projects...
     
  3. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    I'll pester him. I realized the above drawing is not right in yellow. there are some features there I need to get clarification on from a stringer perspective...
     
  4. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    Stephen just got back from a trip yesterday, and is getting his head above water. Expect to hear from him soon
     
  5. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    See hull below. looks to me like double stringers are warranted for almost the entire length of hull between armor/funky step at bow, the dual stepped casement guns, and the sharp hull transition for the aft 1/4 of the ship...

    hull.JPG
     
    Panzer, jadfer and absolutek like this.
  6. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    Lucky for me, I don't have a lot of good detailed superstructure information, so IRC legal block construction it becomes. Now i just need to find decent drawings for the turrets (smacks forhead) and figure out what to do about the stringers in the mid section with those stepped portions of the deck underneath the casements....

    hull2.JPG
     
  7. Anachronus

    Anachronus Well-Known Member

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    Looking very good.
     
  8. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    Alright. now for the important stringer question. if I look at the hull shape, it needs stringers as shown with the ribs shown in grey. blue is 1/4" green is 3/8", red is 1/8". I believe this is allowed but I am not 100% certain. stringers.JPG
     
  9. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Maybe something in here, not sure if you have this link:
    http://dreadnoughtproject.org/plans/SM_Schleswig-Holstein_1908/
     
  10. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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  11. irnuke

    irnuke -->> C T D <<--

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    From a "is it legal like this" standpoint, looks good. Not sure you'd really need the dual stringers right on top of one another like that, though. Could you see yourself skinning the area between them? If not, make it a single stringer and blend the two steps into one. In our scale, I don't think anyone would notice.
     
  12. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    The top stringer is not needed because the pedestal of the casement is not penetrable. This would allow the 3/8 deck down the line. In addition you have to leave wood on each side of the casement corners so that balsa has something to attach to. So the casement assembly including the cupola would be hard area.

    This is how the Baden's that I have seen are cut out (including mine), especially if they use Koehler's molded casements.. which I do.
     
  13. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    I guess I missed the part of the rules where the pedistal can be solid (or it was unclear). if that is the case it greatly simplifies my life here and would make me happy.
     
  14. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    It is solid on every ship that models it. Some don't model it but in those cases the cupola extends from deck to deck. The pedestal is NOT a deck so it can only be part of the casement.

    In any case the size is so small that the cutout would be 1/3 the size of a bb so no reason to bother.
     
  15. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    So I am back working on this again. I am considering an ABS or Polycarbonate superstructure rather than plywood simply for impact resistance. thoughts?
     
  16. Panzer

    Panzer Iron Dog Shipwerks and CiderHaus

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    Maybe Rcengr has a recommendation on what is working well for him, He has several superstructures he has made on the water and they seem to hold up well from what I saw.
     
  17. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    partly I am looking to make the super lighter and more resilient with less waterproofing. 1/16 abs ought to be sufficient from what I have seen if properly restrained at the edges.
     
  18. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    I also like the fiberglass sheets. I have some that I used to make the SS on the Baden and it worked great. It also takes glue better than other surfaces.
     
  19. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    As far as abs or whatever.. sounds like a plan.
     
  20. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    good. I will look at it and see if there is a good way to do it. May be skin over wood frame, and ABS requires a little edge cleanup as it gets a little stringy when laser cut and can not be practically cut thicker than 1/8". Polycarbonate was also suggested but ABS bonds easier. Downside of ABS is that relative to 1/4" ply the material cost is 2x and the laser time is 1.5x for 1/8" ABS. that being said, 1/16 ABS is plenty thick for our purposes when used as a skin if proper edge restraints are used, which would bring that back down and pull out a lot of topside weight.