Chceck with those 2 guys Paul who has these ships or similar for thier drive setup. You should use basically the same system. Save you a lot of trial and error.
The ship is coming along nicely. Well done. How do you get more than one photo to post at the same time? I find that interesting. Mikey
I click on add reply rather than use the quick reply. You can add images that are in the file manager and post them. So I have managed to get the shafts closer to the rudder. Due to the angling of the shafts the ship will have to be run on direct drive with drag disks slowing it down.
Paull you can build a platform and have it tilted to match the angle of the shafts so that yo can install gears. Build either a single platform or 2 seperate platforms and mount your motor mount to it with the motor installed in the mount. Then raise it up and attach a support shim to hold the platform in the angle you want. Another option is to attach universals to your geared output shaft and use them to link the output shaft from your gears to the prop shaft. The extra length will allow flexible mounting and algnment. If your trying to run the prop shafts directly through your gear mount then yes your going to have issues if your goal is to have your motormounts sitting flat on the hull bottom. You could use longer shafts and prop shafts but with a short hull be best to keep it as short as possibe. Course when short your going to have elevation of the stuffing tube entering the hull. A universeal unjoint like a Graupner with a extension between can help give you that extra length and reduce the platform elevation height. Keep trying different methods. Can you get a pic of your props loctation with the hull right side up? Like to see how your props line up that way. You may be able to lower the height of the tube inside the hull. Sometimes you may need to make the entry holes longer to lower it further but be careful it's not too long. Just that much more to seal back up with resin
I can get a picture posted of the props with the hull upright. I am thinking of dog-bone and collars. I have contacted a few people through the IRCWCC list that were running a Maryland (similar hull shape) and they recommended direct drive.I just have to build the motor mounts so I can get a better look at how the motors will line up with the shafts. from what I can see the motor mounts do not have to be very big.Where the motors would be more towards the side it would enable the pump to be mounted between the engines. of course that depends on cannon emplacement. I have contacted Strike about the deck. The sell a deck kit for the Tennessee.
Just work on a motor mount that works for you, 1/8" plywood can make a good mount either flat or inclined but try to get the shafts and motors (or gearboxes) in-line as much as possible as it will dramatically improve the efficiency of the drive system and lead to longer run time for your boat. (yOU CAN ADD TRIANGULAR GUSSETS TO THE SIDES OF THE FIRST ONE ONCE YOU FIND THE ANGLE YOU LIKE) Bryan
Whew for a minute there I thought I was looking at a Toilet roll on a mount. What size motors are you going to use Paul?
Paul could put the rudder back in position so I can see how the props line up with the rudder? I think you have plenty of height clearance below the keel to bring those shafts closer to the keel. This will level out the stuffing tubes iniside the hull. If your using direct drive on 550s are you using a Electroniic ESC?
Paul the tubes are down too low. They can certaintly come up closer to the hull bottom. You would need to cut slots to slide the prop struts through to bring up the tubes and support them or you can trim then down and attach to the hull but the former will give stronger support. When I had them tacked in I had the tubes upward clsoer to the keel bottom.
I think I will cut down the struts. I will look at the PE for an Idea of how close to get to the hull.
The struts have been cut and have encountered a problem. The shafts are now sitting on the bottom of the hull. I will make some adjustments with the shaft holes.
If possible, you may try to move the props closer to the centerline so they are nearly touching. That will help put the water stream from the props more directly on the rudder and help turning a lot.
Paul I hope you take a little question here with out being upset. But what pitch are you useing on your props? It looks like you are running like 35 degree, 3 blade. Are you planning on going direct drive? If you would except a little advice from a guy that ran one for 4 yrs , go gear drive 2.5 to 1 use 4 blade 25 degree pitch if you can fit a 1 1/2 inch prop. It will get you up to speed in good time and you will not lose rpms in a turn , you will use less power and your batteries will then give you a longer run time.I used the BC gear set with the above prop and the ship did very well. Buddy
Buddy I dont think there is enough room for 1.5 inch props. I do have gears that I can install. I was considering going direct with an esc but also considering gears as well.
Paul I was going to install gears usinga 3blade 25 degree pitch using the 550 or 600 motors motors. That should work out well for you. The flat pitch works well. Gives you great accelleration and stopping but gives you plenty of prop wash over the rudder. I used the Same on Roma. Even a 4 blade 25 pitch 1.25 will work well for this model.
I did try those props on Roma. Though gives excellent accelleration, the stopping is not as great and for a ship that size and weight with a lot of hull drag the wash it generates is not as good.. You can lower the shafts a more to accomodate larger prop of 1.25 inches.
I think I will stay with the 1.25 but change the prop pitch. What would be better a 3 blade or a 4 blade?
