You've seen my ugly white plastic barrel holders on The Bike & Warspite. Look bad but work good. I just drilled two holes into the plastic and bolted it to the deck. Having your fill points coming out of a turret makes for much faster reloading durring campain. A must in a cruiser. Putting in a larger hose makes a lot bigger splash in the water, with sidemounts. It also increase the amount of air you use. Not good for a CA in campain, since you have to refill your bottle instead of getting two sorties off of one fill.
Just realized I need to order a double switch for motors and a firing board for the twin sterns. Anyone have the part numbers handy, I want to make sure I order the correct ones (Team Delta). Part #RCE220? Part #RCE200(C)? Visit this site
Thanks, boards are on their way. Just tried to upload the pictures to my folder, but getting this error:You are not authorized to write to this folder. I am signed in, anyone have any ideas?
Made a new folder and got the pictures to load. Stern rudder box, will install the rudder gear when I put it through the hull. Hold down for the bottle is done. Aluminum rod drilled and SS screws epoxied to the hull. Velcro will hold it in place. Simple hold down for the bottle. This is where the box will set in the hull. Battery goes in behind it and sits on the rails. Picture of the pump and screen. Top part comes off and the sides are attached to the hull bottom. Basically a double screen, no large pieces getting anywhere near the pump. Screen still needs to be added to the sides. Inside of the ship is painted with white epoxy paint, easy to wipe down after a battle.
Hows the weight looking, Don's is getting close also, but he has very little excess weight to play with, using a 6v, 7 amp battery in it. He may need to go to a smaller battery. My PE is not using any screen around the pump, I coverd the center channel with screen, and all the balsa just collects on it, and does not flow back to the pump, so far I have not had to clean the pump at all. []
It's fine so far. While the boat might look heavy, it's only spray foam with a piece of 1/32 inch fiberglass covering it. With the foam super I am trying to shoe-horn in a 6 volt 12 amp battery. Failing that I will use Nimh battery packs. Just got the superbrain 989 as a b-day present.
Frank is using the 6v, 4.5 amp sla in his Mogami with no power problems, and his batteries are 4+ years old, lol. Home Depot for $9.25 I think.
My focus is on weight savings. The goal is to have a long lasting campaign ship at NATS where I can do a lot of chasing. The 3.5 tank should give me two sorties, so all I would have to do is refill the guns at the shoreline. Sort of a nascar style pit stop.
Started on the masters for the superstructure. The super will be cast out of lightweight foam, no real give but easy to replace. Each deck will have it's own casting and a central rod(s) will connect them. So if the first level takes a beating, I can just remove the top levels, place the new first level, and then put them all back together again. Pine wood core wrapped with styrene for a smooth surface. Doors are cast and the portholes are plastic disks made with a punch and die set from harbour freight tools. Back super still needs to be cut to height and plastic installed. Turrets are done, next will be the barbets.
Had a great battle this past weekend, used the Aoba and she taught me a few lessons that will apply to this build. First is I am getting rid of the top screen of the pump as this simply inhibits the "quick" check of the pump screen. Next is to remove the water-proof box as this adds unnecessary weight to the ship. I will be building the electronics like Dave has in his PE. VERY nice layout and it works! So clean inside his boat I thought he was missing some wires. Third lesson was to cut the top deck in the stern into two separate pieces so the guns can be mounted to a smaller section of deck. This allows a shorter hose run from the kips to the guns. Photos soon, still working on the superstructure masters.
Thanks! Does anyone know what is the weight of a 6 volt 7 amp battery (actual weight, not what is listed on the website)? I can run 6 volt NiMh battery packs, but I would rather keep it an SLA for cost. Looking for the most runtime of a 6 volt SLA, got any suggestions/websites?
What are you going to use for thru material? I like the shower pan liner but, it is too heavy. I've gone back to aluminum flashing. As far as the battery weight question, I can not help you there. I use 6 volt 12 amp batteries.
No idea on the weight of the SLAs. I'm seriously looking at NiMHs for my Salt Lake City. Beyond the price, I can't see any reason to go any other way, considering weight constraints of the ship.
We've had a guy up here use Gorila Tape, by the makers of Gorila Glue. He taped two layers together offset alittle so he could tape the top to the ship. Worked good in a battle last fall. Duct tape might work too, if it is not too tight.
I'm using the 6v, 7 amp powersonics, on the scale they weigh 2 pounds, 10 1/2 ounces. Here is where I get mine from, best price I have found. Visit this site
It's been a while since posting, thought I would give an update. After using the Aoba in the last region 3 battle, I have changed a few things on the boat. The rudder box is gone, replaced by a modified "waterproof" servo using mineral oil in the case. Seems to work well after being submerged for a day in testing. The electronics are going to be waterproofed (so the waterproof box is gone), I am sold after seeing David's in the PE. Nice, clean look to the inside. Went to using C sized Nimh cells, so the water channeling has been adjusted to handle the smaller size of the battery pack. Still working on the masters for the superstructure. Pictures after this weekend.
